2020 | Domaine Alice et Olivier de Moor | Chablis Coteau de Rosette

This has a very, very deep colour for Chablis that immediately suggests oak ageing. The nose is taut and mineral, with herbs and apple fruit and a core of lemon. On the palate it is very clean and limpid, with more of that lean mineral and citrus dominating, and a raft of dry, lip-smacking acidity.

Producer Information

Domaine Alice et Olivier de Moor is a critically well-regarded wine producer based in the village of Courgis, seven kilometers (four miles) southwest of Chablis town. The eponymous couple produce minimal intervention, organic wines from Chablis itself, as well as from the wider Auxerrois, Burgundy, and even pan-regional, Vin de France blends. The domaine is relatively new to Chablis, with its first plantings and vineyards coming into production in the 1990s. Most estate plots were planted in the Courgis area by the de Moors themselves. The vineyards cover roughly six hectares (14 acres) in the wider Chablis region. Despite initially only producing under the Chablis title, the domaine has purchased – and produces wines from – premier cru plots in the Vau de Vey and Mont de Milieu titles. The couple also have four hectares (ten acres) of vineyard in the wider Auxerrois, including Aligoté and Saint-Bris. When two successive years of frost and hail damage severely impacted production, de Moor embarked on a pan-regional side-project: Le Vendangeur Masqué. Under the Le Vendangeur Masqué Caravan label, the de Moors source fruit from regions across France and vinify and blend the results (which can include Clairette from the Drôme, Chardonnay from the southern Burgundy and/or the Ardèche, Riesling from Alsace as well as Sauvignon Blanc and Aligoté from estate holdings). The estate is one of very few to label some of their Chablis cuvées with a lieu-dit title – a relatively rare process involving greater paperwork as the parcels must be declared separately at harvest. The Coteau de Rosette label from vineyards in Courgis is a prominent example. The estate began conversion to organic agriculture in 2005 and was certified organic in 2008. The wines are made with minimal intervention and only a small amount of sulfur prior to bottling. Most wines are fermented and aged in large format and neutral oak although the domaine also uses stainless steel.

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