2017 | Domaine des Comtes Lafon | Meursault Clos de la Barre

A perfumed nose offers up notes of green apple, lemon zest, algae and oyster shell.

Reviews:

• Wine Advocate: The 2017 Meursault Clos de la Barre has turned out very well, opening in the glass with a youthfully reserved bouquet of citrus oil, clear honey, green orchard fruit and almond paste that's actually less forthcoming than the Perrières at this very early stage. On the palate, the wine is medium to full-bodied, supple and satiny, with tangy acids, good concentration and a lively, saline finish. While this will be approachable young, expect real complexity to emerge with a decade's bottle age.

• Allen Meadows: A perfumed nose offers up notes of green apple, lemon zest, algae and oyster shell. The sleek, delineated and powerful large-scaled flavors are shaped by a firm citrus-tinged acid spine on the exuberantly spicy, strikingly long and bone-dry finish. This youthfully austere effort is also going to require extended patience before arriving at its apogee.

Producer Information

Domaine des Comtes Lafon is a wine producer in Burgundy making some of the most lauded (and highly priced) white wines from Chardonnay in the region. It is located in Meursault in the Côte de Beaune subregion, but has vineyards in three other villages: Chassagne-Montrachet, Volnay and Monthélie. Comtes Lafon's house and cellar were built in 1869 by the Boch family, but its reputation as a winery was most heavily influenced by Jules Lafon, who married Marie Boch in 1894. Lafon bought many of the significant premier cru plots in Meursault and Volnay, and in 1919, parcels in the grand cru Le Montrachet vineyard. Domaine des Comtes Lafon saw an extended period of sharecropping after Jules Lafon's death and the future of the estate became uncertain. It was Jules' grandson René Lafon who took an interest in the winery and fought to stop the division of the vineyards – a move that secured the future of the domaine. Despite René's intervention, many of the lease agreements with the sharecroppers remained in place for decades. Comtes Lafon was making highly regarded whites in many vintages but without consistency. It wasn't until René's son, Dominique, facilitated the end of the sharecropping agreements in the late 1980s and early '90s that Domaine des Comtes Lafon was able to reach its full potential. In 1995, it adopted organic practices and since 1998 has been entirely biodynamic.

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