2019 | Bernard Moreau | Chassagne Montrachet Grandes Ruchottes

Granny Smith apples mixed with pear and kiwi, wonderful definition and as the Morgeots, quite Puligny-like. The palate is superb with impressive concentration and salinity, very focused with a judicious touch of stem ginger enhancing the persistent finish.

Reviews:

• Wine Advocate: Moreau produced a mere 350 liters of the 2019 Chassagne-Montrachet 1er Cru Les Grandes Ruchottes, but its quality is some compensation for the tiny quantity. Unwinding in the glass with notes of pear, fresh apricot, citrus zest, nutmeg, fresh mint and warm bread, it's medium to full-bodied, chiseled and multidimensional, with searing levels of concentration, racy acids, chalky structuring dry extract and a long, saline finish. Between the spring frost and a protracted flowering, Alex Moreau reported that yields at this address were appreciably diminished, ranging from a decidedly low 25 hectoliters per hectare to a moderate 40. Harvest began here on September 7, and alcohols top out at 13.4%. Fermentations were a little fast for Alex's liking, but this is once again a superb range, meriting a place in any well-stocked Burgundy cellar. Serious and concentrated, these 2019s evoke the domaine's 2015s, but if anything they're even better balanced. An unusually hurried schedule, compressed by France's second COVID-19 lockdown, precluded revisiting the bottled 2018s, an oversight that will be remedied later this year—from my own cellar, if necessary. In any case, as ever, any wine bearing the Moreau label comes warmly recommended.

• Burghound: Pungent aromas of matchstick, petrol, mineral reduction and essence of pear are also trimmed in just enough wood to remark upon. There is outstanding concentration to the thick and powerful flavors that retain an almost painful intensity on the bitter lemon and highly refreshing finale. Like the Caillerets, this will need to add depth though more should almost certainly develop.

Producer Information

Bernard Moreau is a viticulteur based in the village of Mancey, in the northernmost part of the Macon wine region. He has been in charge of his 8 hectare family domaine since 1982, when he took over from his father. The vineyards are planted with 40% Chardonnay, 30% Pinot Noir, and 30% Gamay vines. The Bernard Moreau Bourgognes transcend their origins and are among the finest estate-bottled Burgundy values available. Moreau adheres to the principle of sustainable agriculture. He takes great care to ensure that his vines are in excellent health by constantly observing the vegetative cycle and the natural environment. His observations allow Moreau to take the minimal necessary measures and avoid synthetic chemical treatments. Moreau plants grass between rows and leaves vine cuttings on the soil as mulch in order to control erosion and enrich the microbiological vitality of the soil. He ferments with only native yeasts.

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