2021 | Domaine du Vieux Télégraphe | Chateauneuf-du-Pape La Crau

Full and broad, with a well-structured framework for the green plum and citrus cream flavors, while subtle fleur de sel and buttercream notes stream along. The texture starts out glycerol smooth, then is propped up by chalky, slightly bitter tannins to pleasing effect. Fresh, with good intensity and balance through the powerful finish.

Reviews:

• Wine Advocate: Still in tank when I visited in June 2023, the 2021 Chateauneuf du Pape La Crau features scents of crushed stone accenting ripe cherries and hints of garrigue. Medium to full-bodied, it offers taut acids allied to silky tannins and ample length on the finish. It's not a huge blockbuster, but it fits nicely with the Brunier family's evolution toward more elegance in their wines.

• Vinous: The 2021 Châteauneuf-du-Pape La Crau is a solid effort from the Brunier family. The 2021 La Crau unfurls in the glass with a fragrant perfume of crushed violets, lavender, strawberry, raspberry, dried herbs, mint and a dash of white pepper. It is full-bodied and layered, showing a refined profile marked by soft tannins and lively acids. Not as powerful as either the 2020 or 2019, but the 2021 is certainly the most elegant rendition among them.

Producer Information

Domaine du Vieux Télégraphe is a producer in the southern Rhône region of Châteauneuf-du-Pape. Owned by the Brunier family for more than 100 years, Vieux Télégraphe is one of the best-known producers in the region. The Brunier family also produces Gigondas-designated wine under the Les Pallieres label, IGP from Vaucluse, AOC Ventoux and wine under the label Massaya from the Bekaa Valley in Lebanon. Another Châteauneuf-du-Pape red was released by the family under the label La Roquette until 2011, when it was replaced with Piedlong. The domaine was established by Hippolyte Brunier and produced its first wine in 1900. It has grown to become one of the largest land owners in Châteauneuf-du-Pape with almost 100 hectares (240 acres). The majority of its vineyards are dedicated to red varieties, with Grenache being the most important grape in the region, though small sections of white wine are used in the production of Châteauneuf-du-Pape Blanc. The best fruit comes from the La Crau plateau, which sits elevated above many of the region's other vineyards, and is known for its galets, or pudding stones, that account for 70 percent of the soil composition and can reach depths of up to five meters (16ft). The eponymous Vieux Télégraphe is the flagship wine and is made with grapes from the La Crau vineyard, which has the oldest vines. The estate also makes a Télégraphe Blanc, as well as the second wine, Télégramme, made in both red (rouge) and white (blanc) styles. The Télégramme Rouge has a higher percentage of Grenache in its blend and fruit comes from the domaine's younger vines, but these are still decades old. The production of the Télégramme is more than 16,000 cases annually, giving it some of the largest production figures for a Châteauneuf-designated wine. The Télégramme Blanc is made in very small numbers and produced mostly for export to the United States. The other varieties within the Vignobles Brunier holdings include Mourvèdre, Cinsaut and Syrah for the red wines, and Clairette, Grenache Blanc and Roussane for the white wines.

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