2005 | Didier Dagueneau | Pouilly-Fume Silex (Magnum)

Intense, dry, unflambouyant nose, with gently smoky and flinty notes, a touch of citrus, but really a pure, stony minerality. On the palate real concentration, with the gooseberry and passionfruit character coming through, a lean, searing core of lemon, and that tugging, decisive minerality. A very concentrated and impressive wine.

Producer Information

Didier Dagueneau established his eponymous domaine in 1982 in the commune of Saint-Andelain in Pouilly-Fumé, an appellation in the Loire Valley that makes dry white wines from Sauvignon Blanc. The wines from the domaine are highly regarded and some of the most sought-after in the wider central Loire (including Sancerre). Dagueneau came from a family with multi-generational ties to winemaking, and was related to Serge Dagueneau of Domaine Serge Dagueneau et Filles. Despite this, he did not pursue winemaking, instead opting to go into sidecar racing. Although he retired from racing and subsequently took up sled dog racing, he also returned to the Loire to make wine under his own label. He became the enfant terrible of Pouilly-Fumé by heavily and publicly criticizing the practices of his winemaking neighbors, at a time when the region was associated with high yields and accusations of vintage blending. Dagueneau's approach led to the revitalized image of not just Pouilly-Fumé, but Sauvignon Blanc itself, and of Sancerre – the appellation immediately across the Loire River. Dagueneau adopted biodynamics in 1993 (before it really took off elsewhere), tilled the land with horses, and severely reduced yields. Dagueneau also employed oak barrels to maximize lees contact. Dagueneau's wines came to embrace the regional character of flint and they have a reputation for their ability to age. In 2000, Dagueneau bought vineyards in Sancerre in Monts Damnés, and also began a side-project in the Jurançon in 2002 (Les Jardins de Babylone). Domaine Dagueneau offers a small selection of wines and is best known for four offerings from Pouilly-Fumé. The entry-level Blanc Fumé de Pouilly is a blend from several vineyards, while the Buisson-Renard, Pur Sang and Silex are single vineyard efforts, as is the Astéroïde (from ungrafted vines). In 2008, Didier Dagueneau died in an ultralight plane crash leaving his son and daughter, Louis-Benjamin and Charlotte, to run the winery. The 2008 and 2009 vintages were considered stellar and a continuation of the Dagueneau style and quality. The bottles now carry Louis-Benjamin's name.

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