1999 | Domaine des Comtes Lafon | Volnay Santenots du Milieu 1er Cru (Magnum)

Expressive aromas of black cherry, dark berries and chocolate. Seriously sweet and thick but in a distinctly powerful style, conveying a medicinal quality to its very ripe plum, dark cherry and mint flavors.

Reviews:

• James Suckling: Tannic, but here is a modern-style Pinot--dark in color, extracted, showing masses of fruit and tannins, with beautiful focus on black and red fruits and spicy notes. Time should soften it.

• Vinous: Very healthy dark color with just a hint of browning at the edge. Expressive aromas of black cherry, dark berries and chocolate. Seriously sweet and thick but in a distinctly powerful style, conveying a medicinal quality to its very ripe plum, dark cherry and mint flavors. The big tannins saturate the mouth and teeth. There's certainly no rush to drink this--and give it some time in a decanter if you decide to try it soon. "This was a time when we made very dense wines," said Dominique Lafon. "There wasn't an understanding of elegant wines in Burgundy then. And there was also more extraction.

Producer Information

Domaine des Comtes Lafon is a wine producer in Burgundy making some of the most lauded (and highly priced) white wines from Chardonnay in the region. It is located in Meursault in the Côte de Beaune subregion, but has vineyards in three other villages: Chassagne-Montrachet, Volnay and Monthélie. Comtes Lafon's house and cellar were built in 1869 by the Boch family, but its reputation as a winery was most heavily influenced by Jules Lafon, who married Marie Boch in 1894. Lafon bought many of the significant premier cru plots in Meursault and Volnay, and in 1919, parcels in the grand cru Le Montrachet vineyard. Domaine des Comtes Lafon saw an extended period of sharecropping after Jules Lafon's death and the future of the estate became uncertain. It was Jules' grandson René Lafon who took an interest in the winery and fought to stop the division of the vineyards – a move that secured the future of the domaine. Despite René's intervention, many of the lease agreements with the sharecroppers remained in place for decades. Comtes Lafon was making highly regarded whites in many vintages but without consistency.

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