2006 | Taittinger | Comtes de Champagne (Magnum)

Plenty of flesh and weight on the palate. Acidity clasps ripe peach and mango fruits, finishing long, powerful and fine.

Reviews:

• Wine Advocate: Tasted almost two years after disgorgement, the 2006 Comtes de Champagne Blanc de Blancs shows a beautiful golden-citrus color and opens with a fascinating intense, floral, slightly reductive nose that develops enormously in the glass, offering lemon and lemon confit aromas along with flinty notes of crushed chalk and the iodine flavors of the Atlantic Ocean. This is an utterly complex and promising bouquet! The palate is terribly fresh but also rich, lush and intense, with the purity of the finest wines of the Côte de Blancs, the concentration of perfectly ripe Chardonnay and the suppleness of 2006. This has impeccable balance paired with high tension. The wine is very tight and still seems to be on its way right now. Although there is a first hint of aromatic ripeness, this should be a great Comtes de Champagne in a couple of years. The finish is tensioned, concentrated and mineral but keeps its talents in an almost bursting bubble.

• James Suckling: This is settling into a deeper presence. It has a freshness that really appeals, along with Taittinger's signature toasty layer of autolysis, grilled nuts and praline. Plenty of flesh and weight on the palate. Acidity clasps ripe peach and mango fruits, finishing long, powerful and fine.

Producer Information

Taittinger is one of Champagne's most famous houses. Based in the city of Reims, Taittinger is known for its Chardonnay-dominant cuvées, the pinnacle of which is the blanc de blancs prestige cuvée, Comtes de Champagne. The family-owned estate has approximately 290 hectares (710 acres) of vines, around half of which is planted to Pinot Noir, with Chardonnay and a small amount of Pinot Meunier making up the rest. These vineyards contribute 50 percent of Taittinger's output, with the rest coming from growers who have historical relationships with the house. Taittinger's Brut Reserve NV is composed of 40 percent Chardonnay, with the two Pinots making up the remainder. This makes for a fresh and reasonably delicate house style. In addition to this, Taittinger makes a range of Champagne styles, including a demi-sec, several rosés and an array of single-vineyard, vintage and otherwise limited-edition wines. The Comtes de Champagne is Taittinger's top wine, and was first made in the 1952 vintage. The grapes are mostly sourced from grand cru vineyards across Avizé, Chouilly and Le Mesnil-sur-Oger. Oak is used sparingly to impart flavors of brioche and grilled almonds, rather than to add any tannins or weight. The bottles are kept for at least 10 years in the underground chalk galleries beneath the former Saint-Nicaise Abbey in Reims (now the Taittinger headquarters). Taittinger's flagship is considered one of the most consistent blanc de blancs (effectively a Chardonnay-only Champagne) from the region. Taittinger also produces a somewhat rarer Comtes de Champagne Brut Rosé. The blend for this wine is more Pinot Noir-dominant with only 30 percent Chardonnay in the base wine and 15 percent of the Pinot Noir vinified as a red wine (in other words, fermented on skins) prior to blending. The house was established under Pierre Taittinger in 1932. His son François took the reins in 1945 and built up the cellars and the vineyards, establishing Taittinger as a top Champagne house. In 2005, the company was sold to US investment group Starwood, but was bought back a year later by the family.

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