2014 | Martinelli | Zinfandel Jackass Hill

The 2014 is remarkably silky for such an intense wine. Readers who appreciate old-vine Zinfandel will find plenty to like. I always look forward to my tastings at Martinelli. The entire family gathers around a long rectangular table to show their latest releases. This year, the 2014 Pinots are the most impressive wines in the range. Martinelli fans will not want to miss the new Wild Thyme Pinot. The 2013 Chards are a bit subdued, both by Martinelli standards and within the context of the vintage.

Reviews:

• Wine Advocate: The rare 2014 Zinfandel Jackass Hill (63 cases) is, I believe, California’s most expensive Zinfandel, first produced in 1993. The vines are head-pruned and the slopes stupidly steep (hence the name Jackass, attributed to one of the older Martinellis who planted this vineyard over 100 years ago). The wine is firmer, has more tannin, and displays notes of forest floor, underbrush, blackberry, black raspberry and a touch of barbecued meats in a deep, full-throttle, balls-to-the-walls style. Drink it over the next 20 years. One of the great families of Northern California, and of course, one of the highest quality producers, the Martinellis - and rather remarkably so - only estate-bottle 15% of their production from over 300 acres of beautifully situated vineyards in the Russian River Valley and Sonoma Coast. No doubt Helen Turley, who worked at Martinelli and mentored its winemaking team, left a profound influence on the quality of the Chardonnays, Pinot Noirs, Syrahs and Zinfandels, a fact that can’t be overstated. The Chardonnays all go through full malolactic fermentation and tend to see about 50% new oak. The Pinot Noirs are always 100% destemmed and largely spend no longer than ten months in about 60% new French oak.

• Vinous: The one and only 2014 Zinfandel Jackass Hill emerges from a parcel Giuseppe Martinelli planted over 100 years ago on St. George rootstock. The vines lie on a 60% slope, which is simply unthinkable today. Succulent and deeply expressive, the Jackass Hill is laced with sweet red cherry, wild flowers, pomegranate, tobacco, licorice and mint. The 2014 is remarkably silky for such an intense wine. Readers who appreciate old-vine Zinfandel will find plenty to like. I always look forward to my tastings at Martinelli. The entire family gathers around a long rectangular table to show their latest releases. This year, the 2014 Pinots are the most impressive wines in the range. Martinelli fans will not want to miss the new Wild Thyme Pinot. The 2013 Chards are a bit subdued, both by Martinelli standards and within the context of the vintage. Perhaps I caught those wines at an awkward stage. The Syrahs are attractive, although in 2013 the flavor profile leans more towards the red end of the spectrum, which is unusual here. The Martinellis are probably best known for their Zinfandel. The new collection of current releases delivers the goods. As always, the Martinellis like to harvest ripe, which to them means that fruit has to begin to show some dimpling. The wines are rich, powerful, and, at their best, deeply satisfying.

Producer Information

Martinelli Winery is a California producer with a number of vineyards throughout Sonoma County. It is known both for making its own estate wines, and as being a prominent supplier of grapes to other wineries. Martinelli's flagship variety is Zinfandel, but Pinot Noir, Syrah, Chardonnay and Muscat of Alexandria are also important in both its own wines and in its role as a grape grower and supplier.The winery and most of its vineyards are located in the Russian River Valley AVA. The Martinelli family has been growing grapes and farming in the valley since the 1880s, as well as growing other crops such as apples and hops.The farm was founded by Giuseppe Martinelli and Luisa Vellutini who emigrated to California from Tuscany. Looking for a place to start a winery, the couple started by planting Zinfandel and Muscat vines without trellising on a steep hill.

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