2015 | Domaine Dujac | Bonnes Mares

Bright, dark red. The ineffable nose offers a very sexy blend of red fruits, spices, mocha, flowers and herbs. Silky and seamless but with superb integrated acidity giving punch to the intense flavors of raspberry, cocoa powder, flowers and spices. Finishes very suave and very long, with noble tannins perfectly supported by the wine's strong extract.

Reviews:

• Wine Advocate: The 2015 Bonnes-Mares Grand Cru has a very precise and linear bouquet at first, then begins to unfurl with scents of black cherry, mulberry, pomegranate and distant marine scents (oyster shells and estuarine aromas). The palate is medium-bodied with fine tannin, a little chalky in texture with a poised, saline finish that is quite "Roumier" in style. It will need several years for it to unfold but it will reward those with patience.

• Burghound: There is enough reduction present to warrant decanting this if you’re tempted to try a bottle young. Otherwise there is good freshness to the rich, powerful and overtly muscular broad-shouldered flavors that coat the palate with dry extract before culminating in a hugely long finish where the only reproach is a subtle warmth. What I like about this wine though is the subtle interplay of structural elements that contribute mightily to the sense of harmony and grace, which is relatively unusual for such a big wine. In short, this is first-rate as well though I would note that my score assumes that the reduction displayed on the nose will not last.

Producer Information

Domaine Dujac is a highly regarded and critically lauded wine producer based in Burgundy's Morey-Saint-Denis appellation. It makes high-quality wines from Pinot Noir and Chardonnay, ranging from entry-level Bourgogne to wines made from some of the top Grand Cru vineyards in the Côte de Nuits, including Clos de la Roche and Le Chambertin. The domaine was founded in 1968 by Jacques Seysses, who had spent the previous few years travelling around Burgundy learning the craft from the likes of Aubert de Villaine at Domaine de la Romanée-Conti and Charles Rousseau of Domaine Armand Rousseau. He purchased a small, run-down property in Morey-Saint-Denis and planted some Pinot Noir and Chardonnay. In the late 20th Century, Dujac expanded its estate, acquiring grand cru plots in Clos de la Roche (the domaine has just under two hectares/five acres here), Clos St-Denis (1.4 hectares/3.4 acres) and in northern Bonnes-Mares (nearly 0.6 hectares/1.5 acres). Dujac has also expanded further afield, taking control of plots in Romanée-Saint-Vivant (0.17 hectares/0.4 acres) and Le Chambertin (almost 0.3 hectares/0.7 acres), in Vosne-Romanée and Gevrey-Chambertin respectively. Further expansion has occurred in the range of white wines which now encompasses the Puligny-Montrachet premiers crus of Les Folatières and Les Combettes (acquired in 2014), as well as Les Monts Luisants closer to home in Morey. The family also runs a négoce firm, Dujac Fils & Père, set up in 2000, allowing fruit to be bought in as and when required. This label generally features fruit acquired around Morey and the nearby communes, pushing out into Nuits-Saint-Georges and Chambolle-Musigny. Jeremy Seysses gradually took over from his father Jacques after he started working at the domaine in 1998. He has since been joined by wife Diana and brother Alec. Since the 1960s, Dujac has made a few small changes to its winemaking style. Less new oak is used for the younger wines, and the winery is now air conditioned to allow for later malolactic fermentation. Traditionally, whole bunch pressing was used, but now the grapes undergo a small amount of destemming if ripeness levels are not high enough. Other than this, the wines have been made in the same way for half a century and are never filtered and very rarely fined.

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