2016 | Domaines des Comtes Lafon | Meursault Charmes

Expressive nose of spring flowers, yellow orchard fruit, honey, almond and hazelnut. On the palate the wine is deep and concentrated, with almost chewy extract and a lovely sense of completeness. Its acids are fresh and racy, and the finish is long and palate-staining.

Reviews:

• Burghound: An all but invisible trace of reduction still allows the elegant nose of petrol, acacia blossom and ripe pear aromas to be appreciated. There is fine complexity to the vibrant, lightly stony and delicious medium-bodied flavors that possess good underlying tension; indeed this could reasonably be described as racy on the balanced and seriously complex and firmly structured finish. In short, this is excellent.

• Wine Advocate: The 2016 Meursault 1er Cru Charmes is superb, unfurling in the glass with aromas of crisp peaches, apples, dried white flowers, honeycomb and oatmeal. On the palate, the wine is medium to full-bodied, satiny and pure, with a deep, concentrated and multidimensional core, vibrant acids and a long finish. There's plenty of tight-knit structure and dry extract here, so this should be a long-lived Charmes.

Producer Information

Domaine des Comtes Lafon is a wine producer in Burgundy making some of the most lauded (and highly priced) white wines from Chardonnay in the region. It is located in Meursault in the Côte de Beaune subregion, but has vineyards in three other villages: Chassagne-Montrachet, Volnay and Monthélie. Comtes Lafon's house and cellar were built in 1869 by the Boch family, but its reputation as a winery was most heavily influenced by Jules Lafon, who married Marie Boch in 1894. Lafon bought many of the significant premier cru plots in Meursault and Volnay, and in 1919, parcels in the grand cru Le Montrachet vineyard. Domaine des Comtes Lafon saw an extended period of sharecropping after Jules Lafon's death and the future of the estate became uncertain. It was Jules' grandson René Lafon who took an interest in the winery and fought to stop the division of the vineyards – a move that secured the future of the domaine. Despite René's intervention, many of the lease agreements with the sharecroppers remained in place for decades. Comtes Lafon was making highly regarded whites in many vintages but without consistency. It wasn't until René's son, Dominique, facilitated the end of the sharecropping agreements in the late 1980s and early '90s that Domaine des Comtes Lafon was able to reach its full potential. In 1995, it adopted organic practices and since 1998 has been entirely biodynamic. Comte Lafon's stand-out wine is its single grand cru Montrachet, which has consistently been listed as one of the most expensive wines in the world. The domaine also has a range of premier cru white and red wines and while the whites have always been highly regarded, its red wines have gained new recognition for their quality in more recent vintages. In 1999 Comtes Lafon expanded into the Mâcon in southern Burgundy with a second label: Les Héritiers du Comtes Lafon.

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