2018 | Gaja | Sperss Barolo

The wine opens up with dominant citrus notes followed by hints of cedar and spices. Complex aromas of juniper, cherry, and ripe plum rise from the glass. Marzipan, sweet spices, turmeric, and licorice from the wood add another layer of flavor. However, it’s a light use of wood that’s balanced with delicate sweetness, fresh spice notes, and tannins; present but not intrusive in the mouth. The wine finishes clean, sharp, yet austere.

Reviews:

• Wine Advocate: Lots of rose-petal aromas here, together with some stems and sandalwood, as well plums and berries. Medium-bodied with a tight palate and very fine tannins that run the length of the wine. Linear and focused. Hints of nutmeg and pie crust highlight the palate. Approachable. now, but needs at last three or four years to open.

• James Suckling: Lots of rose-petal aromas here, together with some stems and sandalwood, as well plums and berries. Medium-bodied with a tight palate and very fine tannins that run the length of the wine. Linear and focused. Hints of nutmeg and pie crust highlight the palate. Approachable. now, but needs at last three or four years to open.

Producer Information

Gaja is one of the best-known wine producers in all of Italy. Originating in and still based in Barbaresco, in northwest Italy, the Gaja name remains most strongly associated with Nebbiolo-based wines, though the company now makes more wine in Tuscany than Piedmont. The business was founded in 1859 by Giovanni Gaja with just two hectares (five acres) of vineyards in Barbaresco. Each generation saw expansion, although Angelo Gaja, who took over full-time in 1970, is often credited with the estate's more recent success. He was responsible for overseeing sweeping changes in the vineyards and cellars, and introducing the famed single-vineyard Barbaresco wines Sorì San Lorenzo, Sorì Tildìn, and Costa Russi (now Langhe DOC wines). These changes were not always well-received: famously, the name of the Darmagi Cabernet Sauvignon translates as 'what a pity', referring to Angelo's father's regret over the introduction of Bordeaux varieties. In 1994, Gaja took over the 27 hectare (67 acre) Pieve Santa Restituta estate in Montalcino, followed by the 118 hectare (290 acre) Ca' Marcanda estate in Bolgheri. The name of this estate, acquired after protracted negotiations, translates as 'House of Haggling'. Although Angelo Gaja has never announced his retirement, the company is run in conjunction with daughters Gaia and Rossana.

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