2020 | Domaine Laroche | Reserve de l'Obedience Les Blanchots

For this reviewer, the delicious umami midpalate of this wine is everything. Framed by fresh verbena skin, lemon oil, acacia spice, dandelion, celery leaf and black peppercorn, the wine is exciting now but can benefit from cellaring through at least 2028.

Producer Information

Domaine Laroche is one of the most prominent wine producers in Chablis, in northern Burgundy. As well as its fine, mineral-laden wines made from the Chardonnay grape variety, the company has interests in regions as far-reaching as the Languedoc, Chile and South Africa. The domaine was founded in Chablis in 1850 by vineyard worker Jean Victor Laroche. After five generations in the family, Domaine Laroche has come to be one of the largest producers in Chablis. It owns 6 hectares (15 acres) of grand cru vineyards with plots in Les Blanchots, Les Bougros and Les Clos, as well as a further 30 hectares (73 acres) of premier cru vineyards. Despite these holdings, 70 percent of Laroche's production is actually devoted to village-level Chablis, including its flagship wine Saint Martin. There is also a single Petit Chablis in the Laroche portfolio. In 2014, Domaine Laroche launched a single-vineyard Chablis at the village level from Vieille Voye. This is an uncommon practice as the vast majority of village Burgundy is blended from multiple sites. Michel Laroche has recently led an expansion of the family name into new regions. An estate in the Languedoc named Mas La Chevalière offers regional varieties not found in Burgundy, including Syrah, Grenache, Sauvignon Blanc and Viognier. In 2002, Laroche ventured into Chile with the property Viña Punto Alto which produces wines under the Viña Laroche label. Fruit comes from the Casablanca, Maipo and Colchagua valleys and includes Carmenère, Cabernet Sauvignon, Pinot Noir, Chardonnay and Sauvignon Blanc. In the same year, Laroche also purchased the L'Avenir winery in South Africa. In the early 2000s, Domaine Laroche became the first Burgundy estate to adopt screw caps for its entire range, including all of the grand and premier cru wines (although portions of each bottling were kept under cork for certain markets). In 2009, the company merged with Languedoc negociant Jeanjean to become Advini. Along with Domaine Laroche and its new world ventures, Advini owns wineries all over the south of France, as well as in Bordeaux and the southern Rhône Valley.

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