1993 | Domaine Marquis d'Angerville | Volnay 1 Cru Clos des Ducs

The elegant, pure, spicy and beautifully complex nose features notes of wet stone, earth. The mineral-laced, intense and beautifully delineated middle weight flavors are crystalline in their purity while offering stunningly good length on the still ever-so-slightly structured but velvety backend.

Reviews:

• Wine Advocate: The 1993 Volnay 1er Cru Clos des Ducs was one of the surprise showings at the vertical in September 2010. Served blind four years later, it remains an excellent Clos des Ducs. It is bridled with immense purity and panache on the nose, so much so that it would be difficult to pin down as a '93. There is an earthy tincture that I did not recollect on the previous bottle. The palate is more open than the bottle I encountered last year (November 2013). It is very pure with red plum and mulberry fruit, touches of cassis and perhaps just lacking the joie de vivre that it had in abundance a decade ago. It is continuing a graceful decline albeit from a high point, so there is still at least 10 years' of enjoyment here.

• Burghound: The robe is lightening at the rim but there is no bricking. The elegant, pure, spicy and beautifully complex nose features notes of wet stone, earth and now fully secondary fruit though interestingly there is not even a hint of sous bois. The mineral-laced, intense and beautifully delineated middle weight flavors are crystalline in their purity while offering stunningly good length on the still ever-so-slightly structured but velvety backend. For my taste this still robust yet still reasonably refined effort has reached that stage where it will probably continue to soften but probably not add a great deal more in terms of overall depth. In sum, this is one of the great vintages for Clos des Ducs and while it may not be the best Ducster of all time it certainly deserves honorable mention. Tasted several times in the last few years (November 2013 was the most recent) with largely consistent notes.

Producer Information

Domaine Marquis d'Angerville is a Burgundy producer focusing on Pinot Noir from highly regarded vineyards in the Côte du Beaune. The domaine gained fame in the 1920s when it began to make and bottle its own wine, at a time when the common practice was for élevage and bottling to take place in the hands of négociants. Marquis d'Angerville circumvented the négociants entirely by commercializing its own wine, becoming one of the leading producers to do so. The domaine has eight premier cru vineyards in Volnay, as well as one each in Meursault and Pommard. All of its top sites are planted to Pinot Noir, with the exception of the premier cru Meursault Santenots vineyard, which is planted to Chardonnay. This vineyard is unique in that Chardonnay and Pinot Noir are both permitted to be planted, but the Pinot Noir carries a Volnay Santenots designation, while the Meursault is reserved for white wine. The Marquis d'Angerville holdings here come from the Plures section of the vineyard. Domaine Marquis d'Angerville's vineyard holdings total less than 15 hectares (37 acres), which includes the prized monopole Clos Des Ducs. The domaine rounds out its premier cru and village wines with a Bourgogne Blanc, Rouge and Aligoté. In 2012 Domaine Marquis d'Angerville expanded into Jura with the purchase of vineyards and the establishment of Domaine du Pélican. The Angerville family is leasing the majority of the vineyards of famed vin jaune producer Jacques Puffeney. The estate also boasts a particular, small-berried clone of Pinot Noir, known as Pinot d'Angerville, that has been propagated by the regional wine trade body, the BIVB. Since the death of Jacques D’Angerville in 2003, the running of the estate is currently overseen by his son Guillaume. As of 2009, the estate vineyards have been cultivated biodynamically.

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