2017 | Maison Pierre Overnoy | Arbois-Pupillin Chardonnay

The wine is very clean with a very dry and spicy palate with good ripeness, a little closed and mineral.

Producer Information

Maison Pierre Overnoy (now run by Overnoy's protégé Emmanuel Houillon and his wife Anne) is a flagship minimal-intervention wine estate producing highly sought-after wines from its base in the village of Pupillin, just south of Arbois, in the mountainous Jura region of eastern France. The estate's modern reputation was established when Overnoy embraced natural winemaking techniques and eliminated sulfur from the winemaking process. Overnoy, a Jura native, took over the familial domaine in the latter half of the 20th Century, and attended the winemaking school in Beaune. However, he was soon disaffected with modern winemaking principles and, following an encounter with natural winemaking consultant Jacques Néauport (himself a disciple of the so-called "father of natural wines", the legendary Jules Chauvet), he returned to minimal-intervention in the cellar. Overnoy's first vintage with no additions (bar a small amount of sulfur just prior to bottling) was in 1984. Two years later, he had completely eschewed the use of sulfur. The wines were made with no additions and were unfiltered and unfined. Nonetheless, Overnoy retained certain scientific know-how, and would regularly count yeast-cell populations on grape skins, sometimes only harvesting once these were at high enough levels to provide good fermentation characteristics. Seen as one of the precursors of the modern natural wine movement, Overnoy's wines soon garned widespread popularity and commercial interest. The wines continue to command high prices, especially on the secondary market. Since the 1990s, Houillon, then a teenager, had worked at the estate. He (alongside his wife Anne) eventually took over the running of the domaine from Overnoy in 2001, although Overnoy continued to give advice and input into the running of the domaine. In all, the domaine covers six hectares (15 acres) around Pupillin. These are divided equally (roughly two hectares/five acres each) between Ploussard (the local name for Poulsard), Chardonnay and Savagnin. A further 0.3 hectares (0.7 acres) of Trousseau has recently been planted by Houillon. The vineyards are organically farmed.

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