1998 | Georges Roumier | Bonnes Mares

Massively dense in every respect with astonishing concentration of deeply pitched and still 100% primary fruit that complements the compelling, robust and powerful flavors that feature notes of cassis, blueberries, black cherries, minerals and earth, all wrapped in a mouth coating and fantastically long finish.

Reviews:

• Wine Cellar: Bright, saturated deep red. Vibrant aromas of dark berries, licorice and flowers. Dense, thick and powerfully structured, with strong acidity buffered by equally strong extract. Finishes with chewy tannins and excellent persistence. A very young, tightly wound wine that should evolve in bottle for many years.

• Vinous: The 1998 Bonnes-Mares Grand Cru is an intriguing wine. This was completely de-stemmed. Showed extremely well in the London tasting. Here it displays exquisite transparency and detail on the nose, the red fruit infused with undergrowth and crushed stone. In fact, the aromatics outshine the 1999 Bonnes-Mares. The Hong Kong bottles show a slight lactic element, perhaps the oak more marked? The palate is medium-bodied with great precision, just a hint of eucalyptus developing with aeration, “sexy” with a bit of tart towards the 'nimble' finish. This is maturing extremely well in bottle, one of the prettiest examples of Roumier’s Bonnes-Mares in recent years. Tasted at the Roumier verticals in Hong Kong and London.

Producer Information

Domaine Georges Roumier is a wine producer based in the Côte de Nuits village of Chambolle-Musigny, where it produces some of Burgundy's most expensive, highly rated, and sought-after wines. The Roumier story began when Georges Roumier married Genevieve Quanquin in 1924. Quanquin had family vineyards in Chambolle-Musigny, which Roumier began to expand upon. Instead of buying plots outright, Roumier used the French sharecropping/lease system of métayage, whereby an individual cultivates the land for the owner in exchange for a proportion of the produce, to build up the domaine's range. Roumier began with small plots in Musigny, moving onto Bonnes Mares as well as securing two plots in Clos de Vougeot. Most recently, Domaine Georges Roumier expanded into Ruchottes-Chambertin, where it is entitled to two thirds of the harvest from a 0.5 hectare (1.2 acre) parcel owned by Michel Bonnefond. The other third is sometimes encountered as Ruchottes wines labeled with the Bonnefond name (the wine is identical to the Roumier version). When Georges Roumier died in 1965, his son Jean-Marie took over the winemaking. Eventually Christophe, Jean-Marie's son, took over and is the domaine's current winemaker. His focus is very much on the terroir, so new oak is used sparingly and the temperature of the ferment is kept low to allow for the delicacy and fragrance of the wine to shine through. The most important plots in the Georges Roumier portfolio are in the Bonnes Mares Grand Cru vineyard (in which the domaine has 1.6 hectares/3.9 acres) and the Chambolle-Musigny Premier Cru Les Amoureuses vineyard (0.4 hectares/one acre), which make two of the domaine's most sought-after wines.

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