2017 | Domaine Comte Georges de Vogüé | Chambolle-Musigny Premier Cru

The equally fresh nose offers up notably spicier aromas of essence of plum, red cherry and lovely floral nuances.

Reviews:

• Wine Advocate: As readers will know, the 2017 Chambolle-Musigny 1er Cru consists entirely of declassified young vine Musigny, and the wine naturally bears a certain resemblance to its big brother, unfurling in the glass with aromas of ripe cherries, cassis, dark chocolate and Indian spices. On the palate, the wine is medium to full-bodied, ample and fleshy, with a nicely concentrated core of fruit that's still quite primary, having finished its malolactic fermentation only in June/July, framed by chalky underlying tannins and juicy acids. François Millet began the harvest at Domaine Comte Georges de Vogüé on September 2, having worked hard throughout the growing season to limit the generous potential yields provided by vines that suffered hard in the 2016 frosts. He succeeded in delaying malolactic fermentations until the following summer, and the resulting wines are unusually saturated in hue—to the extent that Millet was anxious to emphasize that he hadn't sought to extract more than usual. Readers will know the by now well-established rudiments of winemaking here: destemmed grapes, slow fermentations emphasizing pumping over—with pigeage reserved solely for the Bonnes Mares, delayed malolactic fermentations and élevage with one racking.

• Decanter: The younger vines from Musigny - which means less than 25 years old at de Vogüé - are always made as a separate cuvée, and rightly so. This comes from white soils and the freshness of the limestone really sings on the palate. It has an impressive structure and concentration with plum, kirsch and black cherry fruit flavours framed by stylish 25% new wood.

Producer Information

Domaine Comte Georges de Vogüé, based in the village of Chambolle-Musigny in Burgundy's Côte de Nuits, is one of the most famous wine producers in the region. The historic family estate has a lineage dating back almost half a millennium and forms part of the history of the village of Chambolle-Musigny, where it produces elegant wines made from Pinot Noir and, historically, Chardonnay from the Musigny Grand Cru site. The self-proclaimed "Domaine de Musigny", the estate holds 7.2 hectares (18 acres) of the Musigny Grand Cru vineyard – by far the biggest landowner in the 10.8 hectare (27 acre) climat, including all of the Petit Musigny plot at the southern end that directly overlooks the wall and château of the Clos de Vougeot. The estate also boasts 2.7 hectares (6.5 acres) of Bonnes-Mares – the other grand cru site in the commune of Chambolle-Musigny. Vines are also held in the famous Les Amoureuses Premier Cru vineyard (this amounts to just over half a hectare or 1.4 acres), as well as Les Baudes and Les Fuées, although these are often used to make the village-level wine. Musigny's steep slopes and stony, friable soils, and winemaker Francois Millet's low-intervention techniques, combine to produce a heavily fragranced wine with notes of violets, raspberries and blackberries. The wine, which is one of the most expensive in Chambolle-Musigny, is highly collectable and has the ability to age for decades. The Bonnes-Mares label, on the other hand, tends to be more robust, with more direct fruit and stronger tannins. Historically, Chardonnay was planted alongside the Pinot Noir vines to assist with the acidity and softness of the eventual wine. De Vogüé dug up half of its Chardonnay vines in 1986, and replaced them in their own plot in the Musigny vineyard. This Musigny Blanc is one of Burgundy's most curious wines, and is commanding prices that are rivaling those in Le Montrachet.

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