2004 | Tenuta Il Poggione | Brunello di Montalcino Riserva Vigna Paganelli

Offers ripe blueberry notes, with hints of violet, lilac and sandalwood. Full-bodied, with supersilky tannins and a long, fresh finish.

Reviews:

• Wine Advocate: The 2004 Brunello di Montalcino Riserva Vigna Paganelli emerges from the glass with masses of scorched earth, leather, tar, licorice, menthol and dark fruit. The Riserva shows a touch more inner sweetness, richness and depth in its fruit than the regular bottling, plus a bit more French oak as well. For now, the Riserva is quite reticent and requires air, but with time its awesome richness and power come through in spades. This dark, brooding and authoritative Riserva from Il Poggione is simply gorgeous. Readers who don’t want to pay the premium for the Riserva in 2004 need not worry; I tasted the 2004 regular bottling (twice!) while preparing this article and it is every bit as promising as my review last year suggested. In 2004 the Paganelli vineyard was harvested on the 13th of October, quite late for this estate.

• Vinous: The 2004 Brunello di Montalcino Riserva Vigna Paganelli has also developed impeccably. Dark, ample and broad, the 2004 is built on a core of serious power. Layers of dark stone fruits, leather, spice and tobacco build into the rich, intense finish.

Producer Information

Tenuta Il Poggione is an estate in the Montalcino DOCG appellation of Tuscany, particularly known for its rich, dense Brunello wines balancing ripe fruit, savoury elements and a classic structure. These are considered to be some of the greatest wines produced in Italy. The estate covers 530 hectares (13000 acres), with 140ha (336 acres) planted to vines and 50ha (124 acres) to olive trees. The remainder is dedicated to cereals, livestock and forestry. A new winery was built in 2004, but winemaking is a mix of modernity and tradition with a focus on larger French oak barrels aged in underground cellars. The younger Brunello vines – less than 20 years old – provide the fruit for the Rosso di Montalcino. This is aged for 12 months in barriques and large oak oaks. The standard Brunello is aged for three years in large French oak barrels. The Riserva Vigna Paganelli is only produced in the best years from the oldest vineyard on the estate, planted in 1964. It is aged in the same way as the "normale" but for (at least) an extra year. Cuttings from the Paganelli vines are used for any new plantings. Il Poggione makes a range of wines outside of the Brunello DOCG as well. These include a Sangiovese-Merlot-Cabernet blend under the IGT Toscana designation, and a Vin Santo from Sant'Antimo. A white Toscana IGT combines Vermentino and Chardonnay, while the rosé is made entirely from Sangiovese. There is also a Moscadello di Montalcino and a sparkling wine. The estate was founded in the late 19th Century by Lavinio Franceschi, a landowner on the hills above Florence, who bought land and began planting Sangiovese vineyards and introducing modern farming methods. Il Poggione remains in the same family. Today it is owned by Lavinio's descendents, Leopoldo and Livia.

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