2005 | Domaine Dujac | Morey-Saint-Denis

Good deep red-ruby. Cooler, medicinal nose hints at licorice. Then almost shockingly sweet, fat and full, with flavors of brown spices and dark chocolate. Not a particularly fruity style, but subtly long on the aftertaste, with very sweet tannins.

Reviews:

• Wine Advocate: The Domaine Dujac 2005 Morey-St.-Denis – incorporating the Les Porroux vineyard around the winery – soars from the glass with odors of incense, bitter-sweet black cherry, musky florality, a Chartreuse-like aura of herbal distillates, and wood smoke pungency. In the mouth, the black cherry and cassis fruit runs really deep, persistently wreathed in herbs and flowers, with satisfying hints of fruit skin bitterness and bitter chocolate and herb low tones. Already the texture is silken. The finish – while not overly candified in character – reminds me of sucking on fruit and herbal lozenges whose bittersweet residues cling tenaciously to the palate.

• Burghound: This has turned out better than I foresaw with its cool, pure, spicy and notably floral nose that remains quite fresh while leading to textured and velvety middle weight flavors that brim with dry extract before culminating in a balanced, long and seductively textured finale. While this beauty of a villages level Morey has not yet reached its full potential it could actually be enjoyed now with 30 minutes or so in a decanter first. In a word, terrific.

Producer Information

Domaine Dujac is a highly regarded and critically lauded wine producer based in Burgundy's Morey-Saint-Denis appellation. It makes high-quality wines from Pinot Noir and Chardonnay, ranging from entry-level Bourgogne to wines made from some of the top Grand Cru vineyards in the Côte de Nuits, including Clos de la Roche and Le Chambertin. The domaine was founded in 1968 by Jacques Seysses, who had spent the previous few years travelling around Burgundy learning the craft from the likes of Aubert de Villaine at Domaine de la Romanée-Conti and Charles Rousseau of Domaine Armand Rousseau. He purchased a small, run-down property in Morey-Saint-Denis and planted some Pinot Noir and Chardonnay. In the late 20th Century, Dujac expanded its estate, acquiring grand cru plots in Clos de la Roche (the domaine has just under two hectares/five acres here), Clos St-Denis (1.4 hectares/3.4 acres) and in northern Bonnes-Mares (nearly 0.6 hectares/1.5 acres). Dujac has also expanded further afield, taking control of plots in Romanée-Saint-Vivant (0.17 hectares/0.4 acres) and Le Chambertin (almost 0.3 hectares/0.7 acres), in Vosne-Romanée and Gevrey-Chambertin respectively. Further expansion has occurred in the range of white wines which now encompasses the Puligny-Montrachet premiers crus of Les Folatières and Les Combettes (acquired in 2014), as well as Les Monts Luisants closer to home in Morey. The family also runs a négoce firm, Dujac Fils & Père, set up in 2000, allowing fruit to be bought in as and when required. This label generally features fruit acquired around Morey and the nearby communes, pushing out into Nuits-Saint-Georges and Chambolle-Musigny. Jeremy Seysses gradually took over from his father Jacques after he started working at the domaine in 1998. He has since been joined by wife Diana and brother Alec. Since the 1960s, Dujac has made a few small changes to its winemaking style. Less new oak is used for the younger wines, and the winery is now air conditioned to allow for later malolactic fermentation. Traditionally, whole bunch pressing was used, but now the grapes undergo a small amount of destemming if ripeness levels are not high enough. Other than this, the wines have been made in the same way for half a century and are never filtered and very rarely fined.

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