2020 | Domaine du Vieux Télégraphe | Chateauneuf-du-Pape La Crau

Well-built, with a steady intensity to the waves of white peach, star fruit, acacia, honeysuckle and mirabelle plum. Delivers flashes of lemon shortbread and quinine through the finish, giving it both plump and racy elements.

Reviews:

• Wine Advocate: Coming from a single parcel of 50- to 55-year-old vines in la Crau, Vieux Telegraph's 2020 Chateauneuf du Pape Blanc is a blend of roughly 45% Clairette and 30% Grenache Blanc, with the balance split equally between Roussanne and Bourboulenc. Two-thirds were matured in foudre, with the other third matured in demi-muids, leading to a slightly honeyed nose with hints of toasted grain and gently warmed pineapple. It's full-bodied and creamy, balanced by a hint of bitterness on the long finish.

• James Suckling: This amazing Chateauneuf-du-Pape squares the circle of southern richness and spring-like freshness in spite of coming from a very warm and dry vintage. The stony minerality, saltiness and dried flower character wind together to form a dynamic whole, driving this gracefully across the palate. But I must also mention the savory and licorice richness that is so deftly wrapped around them. Very long, salty and velvety finish.

Producer Information

Domaine du Vieux Télégraphe is a producer in the southern Rhône region of Châteauneuf-du-Pape. Owned by the Brunier family for more than 100 years, Vieux Télégraphe is one of the best-known producers in the region. The Brunier family also produces Gigondas-designated wine under the Les Pallieres label, IGP from Vaucluse, AOC Ventoux and wine under the label Massaya from the Bekaa Valley in Lebanon. Another Châteauneuf-du-Pape red was released by the family under the label La Roquette until 2011, when it was replaced with Piedlong. The domaine was established by Hippolyte Brunier and produced its first wine in 1900. It has grown to become one of the largest land owners in Châteauneuf-du-Pape with almost 100 hectares (240 acres). The majority of its vineyards are dedicated to red varieties, with Grenache being the most important grape in the region, though small sections of white wine are used in the production of Châteauneuf-du-Pape Blanc. The best fruit comes from the La Crau plateau, which sits elevated above many of the region's other vineyards, and is known for its galets, or pudding stones, that account for 70 percent of the soil composition and can reach depths of up to five meters (16ft). The eponymous Vieux Télégraphe is the flagship wine and is made with grapes from the La Crau vineyard, which has the oldest vines. The estate also makes a Télégraphe Blanc, as well as the second wine, Télégramme, made in both red (rouge) and white (blanc) styles. The Télégramme Rouge has a higher percentage of Grenache in its blend and fruit comes from the domaine's younger vines, but these are still decades old. The production of the Télégramme is more than 16,000 cases annually, giving it some of the largest production figures for a Châteauneuf-designated wine. The Télégramme Blanc is made in very small numbers and produced mostly for export to the United States. The other varieties within the Vignobles Brunier holdings include Mourvèdre, Cinsaut and Syrah for the red wines, and Clairette, Grenache Blanc and Roussane for the white wines.

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