2008 | Domaine François Raveneau | Montee de Tonnerre

Classic maturing Chablis with chiselled fruit and acidity and a hint of wet wool. Not that much nose but great cut. Firm, long and really rather beautiful.

Reviews:

• Wine Advocate: Iris, narcissus, peony, heliotrope, lemon, white peach, and litchi combine for the knockout nose of Raveneau’s 2008 Chablis Montee de Tonnerre. Uncannily combining a sense of textural richness, underlying extract, and decisively stony, alkaline, chalky, oyster shell minerality that go beyond its fellow premier crus in this collection. Yet this preserves a vintage-typical core of primary juiciness that helps convey lip-smacking appeal. Musky, sweet floral notes cling to the prodigiously long, expansive, finish of this almost certainly relatively un-evolved wine.

• Vinous: Bright yellow with a green tinge. Classic Montée de Tonnerre aromas of lemon ice, crushed rock, iodiney minerality and white flowers. floral, lemon ice, straight and classic. Tactile, juicy and utterly gripping--in fact still almost painful today. Powerful salty minerality and penetrating acidity currently dominate the wine's lemon oil, grapefruit and floral flavors, with the wine showing a weightless impression. The dusty mineral-driven finish stains the palate and builds inexorably.

Producer Information

Domaine François Raveneau is a noted producer based in the Burgundy subregion of Chablis, where the small plots of Chardonnay produce some of the appellation's most sought-after wines. The domaine was founded in 1948, when François Raveneau and his wife combined their families' vineyard holdings. He was the first of his family to bottle wines made from the grapes from his vineyards – prior to this the grapes had been sold off to other producers. Today the domaine has eight hectares (20 acres) of land spread across three grand cru and six premier cru sites in Chablis. It is run by François' sons: Bernard and Jean-Marie. Domaine François Raveneau has small plots in grand cru sites Blanchot, Les Clos and Valmur and premier cru sites Montée de Tonnerre, Les Vaillons, Butteaux, Chapelot, Montmains, and Forêt. Most of these sites are planted on southwest-facing valley slopes, which allow for maximum sun exposure and ripening. These vineyards are planted Kimmeridgian clay and limestone soils, which are typical of the region. The vines are on average 30 years old, with those in the Montée de Tonnerre Premier Cru having an average age of 50. The grapes are all harvested by hand and then fermented with indigenous yeasts. This is followed by malolactic fermentation in barrels, and then the wines are aged for an extended period of time. François Raveneau's wines see at least 12 months in oak but can spend as much as eight years in barrel or feuillette (a small barrel). Only a very small portion of these barrels are new oak, and the wines are fined and only occasionally filtered.

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