1999 | Domaine des Comtes Lafon | Meursault-Charmes Premier Cru

So subtle and elegant, this refined Meursault soars on the palate, both light and powerful. Plenty of tropical flavors, with toasted oak, spice and gingerbread, but above all a great intensity of citrus and mineral character on the finish.

Reviews:

• Wine Advocate: Talcum powder, perfume, and flowers can be discerned in the aromatics of the 1999 Meursault Les Charmes. Medium-bodied and silky, it offers toast, mineral, white currant, and crisp pear flavors. It is tangy, flavorful, extremely well-balanced, and graceful. This wine also boasts an admirably long, smooth finish.

• Burghound: This is still firing on all cylinders and hasn't missed a beat since it was released. The expressive if now fully mature nose still explodes from the glass offering mildly toasty peach and apricot aromas that give way to rich, thick, relatively dense medium-bodied flavors that possess good minerality on the lingering finish that retains fine intensity and excellent length. For my taste, this is drinking perfectly now though if well-stored, it should continue to do so for at least another decade.

Producer Information

Domaine des Comtes Lafon is a wine producer in Burgundy making some of the most lauded (and highly priced) white wines from Chardonnay in the region. It is located in Meursault in the Côte de Beaune subregion, but has vineyards in three other villages: Chassagne-Montrachet, Volnay and Monthélie. Comtes Lafon's house and cellar were built in 1869 by the Boch family, but its reputation as a winery was most heavily influenced by Jules Lafon, who married Marie Boch in 1894. Lafon bought many of the significant premier cru plots in Meursault and Volnay, and in 1919, parcels in the grand cru Le Montrachet vineyard. Domaine des Comtes Lafon saw an extended period of sharecropping after Jules Lafon's death and the future of the estate became uncertain. It was Jules' grandson René Lafon who took an interest in the winery and fought to stop the division of the vineyards – a move that secured the future of the domaine. Despite René's intervention, many of the lease agreements with the sharecroppers remained in place for decades. Comtes Lafon was making highly regarded whites in many vintages but without consistency. It wasn't until René's son, Dominique, facilitated the end of the sharecropping agreements in the late 1980s and early '90s that Domaine des Comtes Lafon was able to reach its full potential. In 1995, it adopted organic practices and since 1998 has been entirely biodynamic. Comte Lafon's stand-out wine is its single grand cru Montrachet, which has consistently been listed as one of the most expensive wines in the world. The domaine also has a range of premier cru white and red wines and while the whites have always been highly regarded, its red wines have gained new recognition for their quality in more recent vintages. In 1999 Comtes Lafon expanded into the Mâcon in southern Burgundy with a second label: Les Héritiers du Comtes Lafon.

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