1990 | Domaine Michel Esmonin et Fille | Gevrey Chambertin Clos St Jacques

The gorgeous nose of black-cherries, herbs, new oak, and minerals is intense and persistent. In the mouth, the wine is full-bodied, with superb richness, blazingly clear definition, and a long, authoritative, yet elegant finish.

Reviews:

• Wine Advocate: This tiny domaine is a terrific source for Gevrey-Chambertin-Clos St.-Jacques. The gorgeous nose of black-cherries, herbs, new oak, and minerals is intense and persistent. In the mouth, the wine is full-bodied, with superb richness, blazingly clear definition, and a long, authoritative, yet elegant finish.

• Burghound: One of the two best wines Sylvie Esmonin has ever made (along with the 93) with wonderfully complex aromatics of Gevrey earth, black fruits and a touch of secondary aromas followed by flavors offering grand cru depth and weight. Impressively long and displaying plenty of richness, this is an outstanding 1990. The most recent bottle still displayed the above quality but the tannins are a bit chunky and while this is still intense and impressive, it lacks the overall refinement of a genuinely great wine. Still, I like this for what it is and it is still holding beautifully.

Producer Information

A Burgundy domaine that has been catapulted into the front ranks of Gevrey producers in the last decade. Until the late 1980s the domaine was producing fairly average wines with the majority being sold in bulk to negociants. The catalyst for change was Michel's daughter, Sylvie, who joined her father at the domaine in 1986. She trained as a consultant oenologist in Mâcon as well as studying viticulture in Montpellier. Sylvie agreed to join her father on the condition that everything was bottled at the domaine, saying: "I laid down conditions, because I had character". The domaine now has 6.63 hectares of vineyards with the Jewell in their crown being the small holding in the premier cru Clos St Jacques. Today over 90% of the wine is domaine-bottled and Sylivie is very much in charge. The wines are extremely stylish with typical Gevrey firmness but displaying also a silky elegance and tremendous finesse. They benefit from at least four to five years of bottle ageing.

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