1990 | Dunn Vineyards | Howell Mountain Cabernet Sauvignon

Good dark red. Brooding aromas of dark cherry, blackberry, spices, licorice, menthol and chocolate, plus a hint of game. Plush and fine-grained but a bit medicinal and still clenched, with its black cherry and menthol flavors continuing the rather medicinal theme. Very rich and full in the mouth but distinctly savory and a bit unyielding. Finishes with mounting tannins that initially detract from the wine's sweetness.

Reviews:

• Wine Advocate: The massive 1990 Howell Mountain exhibits huge tannin, but immense concentration. The richest Dunn Cabernet since the 1984s? At this early stage, it does not appear to be as super-concentrated as Dunn's wines from the early and mid-eighties. It is slightly more tannic. It does possess a tell-tale mineral, cassis, flowery nose, and a rich, full-bodied, dense, highly extracted, tannic personality.

• Vinous: The 1990 Cabernet Sauvignon Howell Mountain is rich, powerful and explosive. Initially a bit on the wild side, the 1990 needs time to fully open up, but when it does the fireworks start. Both deep and broad on the palate, the 1990 is a direct, voluptuous wine. Next to some of the other vintages, the 1990 is maybe a bit one-dimensional, but that dimension is nevertheless one of extreme beauty. The 1990 remains a bit monolithic. I wonder what time will bring here.

Producer Information

Dunn Vineyards is a small family-owned estate in Howell Mountain, a sub-appellation within the Napa Valley. Founded in 1979 by Randy Dunn, and still run by him and his son Mike. It has something of a cult reputation and is known for making some of the very best Cabernet Sauvignon in the region. Only two wines are produced under the Dunn Vineyards banner, both entirely from Cabernet Sauvignon. The first is labeled under the Howell Mountain AVA and offers plenty of fruit-weight and tannic structure. The other is labeled with the wider Napa Valley appellation, and combines around 85 percent Howell Mountain fruit with the remainder coming from the valley floor. This wine usually shows softer tannins and is approachable at a younger age, although it can still usually be cellared for 15 years or more. Production is relatively small with around 2500 cases of Howell Mountain and 1500 of the Napa Valley wine produced each year. The family lands extend to 200 acres (80 hectares), the majority of which is woodland. Some 35 acres (14 hectares) are under vine, in several vineyards dotted throughout the trees. Most of this is Cabernet Sauvignon, although there are a few blocks of Petite Sirah destined for the Retro Cellars label set up by Mike Dunn. Dunn Vineyards also has a few plots of other grape varieties, although these are not commercially released.

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