2005 | Domaine Dujac | Clos Saint-Denis

Bright red-ruby. Musky, brooding aromas of dark fruits, mocha, spices and minerals; appears to be shutting down on the nose. Dense, large-scaled and packed with fruit and extract. The liqueur-like black raspberry, underbrush and licorice root flavors expand on the back half and go on and on on the aftertaste.

Reviews:

• Wine Advocate: Intensely smoky, and with concentrated black cherry, herb, and brown spice aromas, the Dujac 2005 Clos St.-Denis comes onto the palate quite firm, palpably dense, its structural rectitude, fruit pit notes, stony mineral shadings, and abundant fine tannins all somewhat alleviated by ample glycerin and complemented by the sheer sappy juiciness of its ripe black fruits. This is positively fetal when compared with the Clos de la Roche, but exhibits no less remarkable sheer length. Certainly we’re looking at another wine with more than a decade’s developmental potential.

• Burghound: An earthy yet elegant nose features notes of game, subtle smoke, red, black and blue fruit and briar notes that sit atop concentrated, pure and detailed flavors wrapped in a wonderfully intense, balanced and strikingly long finish. This oozes class and refinement and interestingly, the mid-palate is almost tender yet there is a robust firmness to the massively long finish that lets one know that this is built for the next several decades. Most impressive and in contrast to the Malconsorts, this is even better than what I saw in barrel last year but note that patience will most definitely be required.

Producer Information

Domaine Dujac is a highly regarded and critically lauded wine producer based in Burgundy's Morey-Saint-Denis appellation. It makes high-quality wines from Pinot Noir and Chardonnay, ranging from entry-level Bourgogne to wines made from some of the top Grand Cru vineyards in the Côte de Nuits, including Clos de la Roche and Le Chambertin. The domaine was founded in 1968 by Jacques Seysses, who had spent the previous few years travelling around Burgundy learning the craft from the likes of Aubert de Villaine at Domaine de la Romanée-Conti and Charles Rousseau of Domaine Armand Rousseau. He purchased a small, run-down property in Morey-Saint-Denis and planted some Pinot Noir and Chardonnay. In the late 20th Century, Dujac expanded its estate, acquiring grand cru plots in Clos de la Roche (the domaine has just under two hectares/five acres here), Clos St-Denis (1.4 hectares/3.4 acres) and in northern Bonnes-Mares (nearly 0.6 hectares/1.5 acres). Dujac has also expanded further afield, taking control of plots in Romanée-Saint-Vivant (0.17 hectares/0.4 acres) and Le Chambertin (almost 0.3 hectares/0.7 acres), in Vosne-Romanée and Gevrey-Chambertin respectively. Further expansion has occurred in the range of white wines which now encompasses the Puligny-Montrachet premiers crus of Les Folatières and Les Combettes (acquired in 2014), as well as Les Monts Luisants closer to home in Morey. The family also runs a négoce firm, Dujac Fils & Père, set up in 2000, allowing fruit to be bought in as and when required. This label generally features fruit acquired around Morey and the nearby communes, pushing out into Nuits-Saint-Georges and Chambolle-Musigny. Jeremy Seysses gradually took over from his father Jacques after he started working at the domaine in 1998. He has since been joined by wife Diana and brother Alec. Since the 1960s, Dujac has made a few small changes to its winemaking style. Less new oak is used for the younger wines, and the winery is now air conditioned to allow for later malolactic fermentation. Traditionally, whole bunch pressing was used, but now the grapes undergo a small amount of destemming if ripeness levels are not high enough. Other than this, the wines have been made in the same way for half a century and are never filtered and very rarely fined.

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