2019 | Domaine Dujac | Bonnes Mares

A slightly riper nose is still quite fresh with its aromas of poached plum, violet, rose petal and gentle earth wisps. There is excellent verve to the delineated and tautly muscular broad-shouldered flavors that possess an intrinsic sweetness on the wonderfully complex and superbly long finish that is less austere than usual.

Reviews:

• Wine Advocate: Unwinding in the glass with scents of rose petals, orange rind, sweet soil tones and red fruits, Dujac's 2019 Bonnes-Mares Grand Cru is, as usual, one of the most backward and reserved wines in the range. Full-bodied, bright and tightly wound, it's vibrant and mineral: the only missing ingredient is time. The 2019 vintage is a terrific success for Domaine Dujac. Perfumed, concentrated and vibrant, with beautifully refined tannins and bright fruit tones despite the warmth and sunshine of the vintage, I'd be happy to own any or all of the cuvées reviewed here. The 2018s, revisited in bottle, have also lived up to my high expectations: More overtly muscular and structured than the 2019s, these are serious wines built for the cellar, but their potential is evident and anyone opening bottles 20 or 30 years from now will be delighted to own them. Of course, readers will be familiar with the outlines of the Dujac approach to producing red Burgundy: organic farming, fermentation in (for the most part) concrete vats with a predominance of whole clusters and élevage in barrels largely sourced from Tonnellerie Rémond. Since Jeremy Seysses took the reins from father Jacques in 2001, there have been evolutions: Inspired by Christophe Roumier, Jeremy seeks to retard malolactic fermentation, he's tried retaining more lees, and there were experiments with leaving the wines unracked throughout their élevage.

• Vinous: The 2019 Bonnes-Mares Grand Cru has a more floral bouquet compared to others, violet and iris petal infusing the mixture of red and blue fruit. Well defined and nicely focused, yet maybe just missing the enthralling complexity of the Clos de la Roche. The palate is medium-bodied with very supple and lithe tannins, beautifully judged acidity with an irresistible silky finish that lingers in the mouth. Hopefully that aromatics will evolve just a little more terroir expression and then you will have a seriously fine Bonnes-Mares.

Producer Information

Domaine Dujac is a highly regarded and critically lauded wine producer based in Burgundy's Morey-Saint-Denis appellation. It makes high-quality wines from Pinot Noir and Chardonnay, ranging from entry-level Bourgogne to wines made from some of the top Grand Cru vineyards in the Côte de Nuits, including Clos de la Roche and Le Chambertin.The domaine was founded in 1968 by Jacques Seysses, who had spent the previous few years travelling around Burgundy learning the craft from the likes of Aubert de Villaine at Domaine de la Romanée-Conti and Charles Rousseau of Domaine Armand Rousseau. He purchased a small, run-down property in Morey-Saint-Denis and planted some Pinot Noir and Chardonnay.

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