1996 | Georges Roumier | Morey St Denis Clos de la Bussiere

Fresh red color. Sappy aromas of black cherry, licorice, pepper and brown spices. Juicy, penetrating and rather powerfully structured; comes across as drier than the above due to its mineral underpinning and strong acidity.

Reviews:

• Wine Cellar: Fresh red color. Sappy aromas of black cherry, licorice, pepper and brown spices. Juicy, penetrating and rather powerfully structured; comes across as drier than the above due to its mineral underpinning and strong acidity. Yet this seems less shocked by the March bottling than the Chambolle.

• Wine Advocate: A reserve bottles inserted at the end of the tasting to compensate for the corked Bonnes-Mares 1988, I though this deserved more attention that it received. Deep garnet hue. A lovely, intense nose of raspberry and cherries with more tangible new oak that on other vintages. The palate is comparatively "plump" compared to other vintages with sweet red-berried fruit, wild strawberries and a touch of vanilla. Less rustic than I expected, very harmonious, a wine that seems to be waking from a slumber and will be ravishing in two or three more years. A gregarious Clos de la Bussieres. Lovely.

Producer Information

Domaine Georges Roumier is a wine producer based in the Côte de Nuits village of Chambolle-Musigny, where it produces some of Burgundy's most expensive, highly rated, and sought-after wines. The Roumier story began when Georges Roumier married Genevieve Quanquin in 1924. Quanquin had family vineyards in Chambolle-Musigny, which Roumier began to expand upon. Instead of buying plots outright, Roumier used the French sharecropping/lease system of métayage, whereby an individual cultivates the land for the owner in exchange for a proportion of the produce, to build up the domaine's range. Roumier began with small plots in Musigny, moving onto Bonnes Mares as well as securing two plots in Clos de Vougeot. Most recently, Domaine Georges Roumier expanded into Ruchottes-Chambertin, where it is entitled to two thirds of the harvest from a 0.5 hectare (1.2 acre) parcel owned by Michel Bonnefond. The other third is sometimes encountered as Ruchottes wines labeled with the Bonnefond name (the wine is identical to the Roumier version). When Georges Roumier died in 1965, his son Jean-Marie took over the winemaking. Eventually Christophe, Jean-Marie's son, took over and is the domaine's current winemaker. His focus is very much on the terroir, so new oak is used sparingly and the temperature of the ferment is kept low to allow for the delicacy and fragrance of the wine to shine through. The most important plots in the Georges Roumier portfolio are in the Bonnes Mares Grand Cru vineyard (in which the domaine has 1.6 hectares/3.9 acres) and the Chambolle-Musigny Premier Cru Les Amoureuses vineyard (0.4 hectares/one acre), which make two of the domaine's most sought-after wines.

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