2002 | Domaine Robert Groffier | Bonnes Mares Grand Cru

Raw meat, black fruits, and spices can be found in the profound aromas of the 2002 Bonnes Mares. Medium to full-bodied, thick, and concentrated, this is a structured yet lush effort, crammed with stony black fruits.

Reviews:

• Burghound: A mildly toasty nose displays enough reduction to comment on so I would suggest decanting this first for 20 minutes or so. Otherwise there is good vibrancy to the nicely concentrated middle weight flavors that possess good complexity and solid length. This has the classic Bonnes Mares power and muscle yet the still moderately firm tannins suggest that this could still benefit from another 2 to 3 years of cellar time. In sum this is a perfectly good but not truly distinguished effort that is approaching its peak.

• Vinous: Mellow, expressive aromas of musky strawberry and spices are a bit less sauvage than those of the Clos de Bèze. Smoother in the mouth as well, offering lovely finesse and restrained sweetness to the fine-grained raspberry and strawberry fruit flavors. The slowly building whiplash of a finish really stains the palate, with firm but ripe tannins contributing to the overall impression of freshness. Lingering saline minerality adds another dimension.

Producer Information

Domaine Robert Groffier Père & Fils is a winery in the Morey-Saint-Denis commune of the Côte de Nuits in Burgundy. A majority of the producer's vineyards are in Chambolle-Musigny and Gevrey-Chambertin where it makes a range of grand and premier cru wines, mostly from Burgundy's prized red variety, Pinot Noir. The estate has 7 hectares (17 acres) of land that includes parcels in the grand cru vineyards of Bonnes-Mares and Chambertin Clos-de-Bèze. Groffier also has the largest holdings of any producer in the premier cru site Les Amoureuses, making competitively priced wines that are arguably more sought-after than their grand cru counterparts. Sustainable practices are used in the vineyard with herbicides forbidden since 2005. In the winery, cold maceration is employed for five to seven days prior to fermentation. Both pigeage and pumping down are employed throughout the fermentation to ensure extraction of color and phenolics. Oak maturation takes place in French barriques, the extent and percentage of which depends on the vintage. The domaine has been in the Groffier family since the 19th Century when it was established by Frederick Groffier. Robert Groffier took over in the mid-20th Century and the estate began to bottle its own wine.

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