2017 | Domaine du Comte Liger-Belair | Clos des Grandes Vignes Blanc

A background application of wood frames ripe and fresh white-fleshed fruit aromas that exhibit a whisper of exotic character. The attractively textured and fleshy flavors possess very good length if only average depth on the ever-so-mildly warm finish.

Reviews:

• Wine Advocate: The 2017 Nuits Saint Georges 1er Cru Clos des Grandes Vignes Blanc had seen no sulfur dioxide between the vintage and September 2018, as Liger-Belair believes in letting the wine get quite oxidative before bringing it back to a more reductive state later in its élevage. Offering up aromas of waxy lemon rind, bruised apples and honeycomb, the wine is medium to full-bodied, textural and phenolic, with chewy structuring extract and a long, mouthwatering finish.

• Vinous: The 2017 Nuits Saint-Georges Clos des Grands Vignes Blanc 1er Cru, matured in around 28% new oak, has an attractive bouquet with scents of brioche, honey and yellow flowers plus a hint of custard creams in the background. The palate is well balanced with a creamy opening, a little low in acidity compared to recent vintages, but displays fine purity toward the finish. Drink over the next decade.

Producer Information

Domaine du Comte Liger-Belair, founded in 2000, is a relatively new wine producer in Burgundy, although the Liger-Belair family have owned vineyards in Vosne-Romanée since 1815. The domaine makes a range of grand and premier cru wines from vineyards in Nuits-Saint-Georges and Vosne-Romanée, with the tiny monopole of La Romanée providing Comte Liger-Belair's flagship wine. Louis Liger-Belair, a former general in Napoleon's army, acquired a vineyard holdings during the state sell-off of estates confiscated under the French Revolution – including the impressive Château de Vosne-Romanée. The Liger-Belairs held a good portion of land in the southern Côte de Nuits in the 19th Century, owning La Romanée and La Tâche as well as large portions of Clos de Vougeot and Chambertin, and a handful of premier cru vineyards. Much of the land was sold off in 1933 under Burgundy's complicated Napoleonic inheritance laws. What was left was farmed out to local vignerons and the wares sold to negociants. In 2000, Comte Louis-Michel Liger-Belair took over management of the vineyards and began to grow holdings in Vosne-Romanée and Nuit-Saint-Georges again. Comte Liger-Belair now produces the only wine from La Romanée, the Grand Cru vineyard on the hill above Romanée-Conti. The domaine also holds land in several Vosne-Romanée Premier Cru vineyards, including Aux Raignots and Les Chaumes, as well as in the Echezeaux Grand Cru vineyard and in a couple of Premier Crus in Nuits-Saint-Georges. Comte Liger-Belair's mostly Pinot Noir-based wines are made using biodynamic principles, and vineyards are plowed by horse. Short maceration times are favoured to avoid over-extraction, and the domaine uses mostly new oak. Domaine du Comte Liger-Belair's elegantly structured wines are highly sought-after, despite the domaine's youth. The La Romanée monopole wine is regularly among the most expensive wines produced in Burgundy.

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