2015 | Domaines des Comtes Lafon | Meursault Charmes

Aromas and flavors of ripe peach, lemon and smoky minerality, plus an element of vanillin oak. A wonderfully broad, sweet, seamless 2015 with surprising lift and no impression of undue weight. Finishes wonderfully fresh and long, with piquant spicy lift.

Reviews:

• Decanter: For me, the Charmes is the king of the Lafon premier crus this year, soaring from the glass with a stunning bouquet of pear, mirabelle plum, white peach, hazlenut and crème pâtissière. On the palate the wine is deep and firm at the core, with glossy textural amplitude and vibrancy through the penetrating finish. One really feels the old-vine intensity here.Drinking Window 2020 - 2045.

• Wine Advocate: The 2015 Meurault 1er Cru Les Charmes was picked on 30 August, the same day as the Meursault Désirée and Goutte d'Or. It displayed a focused bouquet: smoke, walnut and gun flint that are all precise and almost as intense as the Les Perrières. The palate displayed a light reduction à la Montrachet. It is underpinned by a fine acidic line, quite angular at this stage albeit with good weight. It leads to a confident finish offering dried honey, walnut and crustacea towards the persistent finish.

Producer Information

Domaine des Comtes Lafon is a wine producer in Burgundy making some of the most lauded (and highly priced) white wines from Chardonnay in the region. It is located in Meursault in the Côte de Beaune subregion, but has vineyards in three other villages: Chassagne-Montrachet, Volnay and Monthélie. Comtes Lafon's house and cellar were built in 1869 by the Boch family, but its reputation as a winery was most heavily influenced by Jules Lafon, who married Marie Boch in 1894. Lafon bought many of the significant premier cru plots in Meursault and Volnay, and in 1919, parcels in the grand cru Le Montrachet vineyard. Domaine des Comtes Lafon saw an extended period of sharecropping after Jules Lafon's death and the future of the estate became uncertain. It was Jules' grandson René Lafon who took an interest in the winery and fought to stop the division of the vineyards – a move that secured the future of the domaine. Despite René's intervention, many of the lease agreements with the sharecroppers remained in place for decades. Comtes Lafon was making highly regarded whites in many vintages but without consistency. It wasn't until René's son, Dominique, facilitated the end of the sharecropping agreements in the late 1980s and early '90s that Domaine des Comtes Lafon was able to reach its full potential. In 1995, it adopted organic practices and since 1998 has been entirely biodynamic. Comte Lafon's stand-out wine is its single grand cru Montrachet, which has consistently been listed as one of the most expensive wines in the world. The domaine also has a range of premier cru white and red wines and while the whites have always been highly regarded, its red wines have gained new recognition for their quality in more recent vintages. In 1999 Comtes Lafon expanded into the Mâcon in southern Burgundy with a second label: Les Héritiers du Comtes Lafon.

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