2017 | Vincent Dauvissat | Chablis Montee de Tonnerre

An equally restrained and cool nose is overtly floral and quite smoky with background notes of menthol, iodine, tidal pool and various white-fleshed fruit nuances. The elegant, refined and strikingly pure flavors possess a wonderful texture while delivering first-rate punch on the bitter lemon-inflected finale.

Reviews:

• Wine Advocate: The 2017 Chablis 1er Cru Montée de Tonnerre is a bottling that debuted in 2013, and the Dauvissat family lost some 25% of their crop to hail this year. Unfurling in the glass with notes of honeyed peaches, crisp green apples, citrus oil and pastry cream, the wine is medium to full-bodied, ample and satiny, with a layered core that's more structured and tighter-knit than the Vaillons that preceded it, concluding with a chalky finish.

• James Suckling: From the Right Bank, this has a super fresh and pure nose with white peaches and lime leaves as well as subtle aromatic green herbal notes. Super fresh, long and deep with plenty of richness and a big swathe of acid to close. Wow! Drink from 2020.

Producer Information

Vincent Dauvissat is one of the most prestigious producers from the Chablis region of northern Burgundy. It is family-owned and -operated and has been selling wine under the family name since 1931. In 1976 Vincent began helping his father René Dauvissat and he has since taken over. The wines can be bottled as Vincent Dauvissat or Domaine Dauvissat-Camus – the latter denoting wider family holdings farmed and made by Dauvissat. Chablis in general is known for its steely, crisp wines made from Chardonnay. The soil of the best sites is Kimmeridgian, a mineral-rich clay with significant lime content formed by a high density of marine fossils. Vincent Dauvissat has sections in two Grand Cru vineyards: Les Clos and Les Preuses. Additionally, Dauvissat boasts four premier cru sites: Séchet, Vaillons, Montmains, and the acclaimed La Forêt (labeled by Dauvissat as "La Forest"), the quality of which can approach that of the grand crus in good vintages. Dauvissat also produces a Villages Chablis and a Petit Chablis. However, the small size of Dauvissat's basic Chablis holding (on the opposite side of the valley to the La Forêt vineyard) and its correspondingly small production means it can be the hardest of the wines to find. The fruit is naturally farmed and hand-harvested. No destemming is done (the wines are all whole bunch pressed) and malolactic fermentation occurs spontaneously. Winter temperatures cause the tartrates to precipitate out of the wine and beyond this, the wines are unfined. Unconventionally for Chablis, Dauvissat forgoes bâtonnage (regular lees stirring). Vincent Dauvissat is also one of the few Chablis producers to use oak barrels during élevage (the wines' maturation in cellar), though the barrels used are 6-8 years old. The belief is that the oak is essential in developing the body and structure of the wine, but old barrels are used so that the flavor characteristics are unaffected.

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