2020 | Joh. Jos. Prüm | Graacher Himmelreich Riesling Auslese

The 2020 is very restrained on the palate, poised and waiting to unfurl. The fruit is is delicate, pure and poised showing green apples, pear and pink grapefruit with a touch of guava and an acidity that races its way around the palate. Superb balance and length.

Reviews:

• Wine Advocate: The 2020 Graacher Himmelreich Auslese is discreet and remarkably coolish on the dense and lemon-scented nose compared to Zeltingen and Bernkastel. White peach and nectarine aromas intertwined with coolish broken slate aromas make this a savory and irresistible Auslese, even though, or exactly because of it, this is so discreet and only subversively erotic on the nose. The palate then reveals stunning lightness and finesse based on a filigreed structure and highly refined and zesty acidity. This is almost weightless, but it has a sweet core that materializes the fruit, whereas in the transcendental Zeltinger Sonnenuhr, it's more of an idea. 7% stated alcohol. Natural cork. Tasted at the domaine from AP 19 21 in July 2022. Prüm's 2020s are without exception narrative Rieslings, shaped by their respective origins, which to taste always means pleasure and even relaxation but never real work. It will certainly not be easy for the 2021s to outdo the partly grandiose 2020s once these show fascinating clarity, finesse and elegance. Even Dr. Manfred Prüm, probably not a man of praise, had to admit at the end, "That was a highly enjoyable wine tasting; that's how I like it!" He wanted to explicitly praise his daughter Katharina for the 2020 vintage, but at the subsequent lunch he preferred to devote himself and us to two wines from the archive. Thank goodness Prüm wines speak for themselves anyway, so who needs praise?

• James Suckling: Still very youthful, but with a little aeration in the glass, aromas of honeysuckle, peach and apricot emerge. Concentrated and juicy on the palate, yet the overall impression is of restraint and delicacy. Very long and stunningly filigree finish that pulls you inexorably back for more of this almost metaphysical elixir. Drinkable now, but best from 2023.

Producer Information

Joh. Jos. Prüm is easily one of Germany's most famous wine producers. The estate is based in the village of Wehlen on the banks of the Mosel, and produces top-quality Rieslings that are noted for their balance and longevity. J.J. Prüm's wines are highly collectable, and are consistently included on Wine-Searcher's Most Expensive Wines list. The Prüm family has been making wine in the Mosel for several hundred years, but Joh. Jos. Prüm was founded properly in 1911, by Johann Josef Prüm. The estate was taken over by his brother Sebastian in 1920, the year that Joh. Jos. Prüm created its first sweet Auslese wine, and from there went on to become one of Germany's most well-known and highly respected wines. It has remained in the family since. Joh. Jos. Prüm has some 20 hectares (50 acres) of vines spread out over several Erste Lage vineyards. Almost half of these are found in the Wehlener Sonnenuhr vineyard, which makes a range of styles under the Prädikatswein system, including Auslese, Beerenauslese, Eiswein and Trockenbeerenauslese. These are undoubtedly the estate's most prominent wines, although wines made in the Graacher Himmelreich and Bernkasteler Badstube vineyards are also highly sought after.

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