2019 | Domaine des Comtes Lafon | Volnay Santenots-du-Milieu

A spicier and more deeply pitched nose of dark raspberry, floral, plum and exotic tea is trimmed in just enough wood to merit mentioning. The equally refined yet even more powerful and more concentrated flavors exude a subtle bead of minerality on the superbly persistent finish.

Reviews:

• Wine Advocate: Aromas of plums, wild berries, rose petals, warm spices and raw cocoa introduce Lafon's 2019 Volnay 1er Cru Les Santenots-du-Milieu, a medium to full-bodied, bright and precise wine that's layered and concentrated, with an elegant, refined profile that's finer-boned than its more muscular 2018 predecessor. This is very promising.

• Jasper Morris: Fine mid purple. The nose is more backward here, showing the oak a little bit from this sample. This all fits in with the weightier character of Santenots-du-Milieu. The palate marries this intensity with elegance to make the usual complete wine, fleshed out with sweet dense cherry fruit.

Producer Information

Domaine des Comtes Lafon is a wine producer in Burgundy making some of the most lauded (and highly priced) white wines from Chardonnay in the region. It is located in Meursault in the Côte de Beaune subregion, but has vineyards in three other villages: Chassagne-Montrachet, Volnay and Monthélie. Comtes Lafon's house and cellar were built in 1869 by the Boch family, but its reputation as a winery was most heavily influenced by Jules Lafon, who married Marie Boch in 1894. Lafon bought many of the significant premier cru plots in Meursault and Volnay, and in 1919, parcels in the grand cru Le Montrachet vineyard. Domaine des Comtes Lafon saw an extended period of sharecropping after Jules Lafon's death and the future of the estate became uncertain. It was Jules' grandson René Lafon who took an interest in the winery and fought to stop the division of the vineyards – a move that secured the future of the domaine. Despite René's intervention, many of the lease agreements with the sharecroppers remained in place for decades. Comtes Lafon was making highly regarded whites in many vintages but without consistency. It wasn't until René's son, Dominique, facilitated the end of the sharecropping agreements in the late 1980s and early '90s that Domaine des Comtes Lafon was able to reach its full potential. In 1995, it adopted organic practices and since 1998 has been entirely biodynamic. Comte Lafon's stand-out wine is its single grand cru Montrachet, which has consistently been listed as one of the most expensive wines in the world. The domaine also has a range of premier cru white and red wines and while the whites have always been highly regarded, its red wines have gained new recognition for their quality in more recent vintages. In 1999 Comtes Lafon expanded into the Mâcon in southern Burgundy with a second label: Les Héritiers du Comtes Lafon.

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