2017 | Domaine Hubert Lamy | Puligny-Montrachet Les Tremblots Haute Densite

This is quite firmly reduced today. Otherwise there is even better concentration to the more powerful yet equally elegant and rich flavors that also coat the palate with dry extract while offering terrific depth and persistence on the saline-inflected finish.

Reviews:

• Wine Advocate: There is one barrel of the 2017 Puligny-Montrachet Les Tremblots Haut Densité, an extraordinary wine that transcends its appellation. Wafting from the glass with a deep bouquet of ripe lemons, dried white flowers and beeswax, the wine is medium to full-bodied, immensely layered and concentrated, with an electric sense of energy, incredible texture and a searingly mineral finish. The wine's combination of amplitude, satiny glossiness and weightlessness is magical, surpassing many grands crus, and despite its comparatively lowly appellation I have scored it accordingly.

• Vinous: The 2017 Puligny-Montrachet Les Tremblots Haut Densité has a very tightly wound and precise bouquet at first. The nose is backward with fleeting scents of cold wet limestone and sea spray, but it gradually gains intensity and articulates the vineyard. The palate is well balanced with strong saline notes, intense and focused with fine depth towards the finish. Excellent. There is just a single 350-litre barrel of this, around 450 bottles or so.

Producer Information

Domaine Hubert Lamy is a wine estate based in Saint-Aubin, Burgundy, producing well-regarded wines from that appellation. The domaine also has holdings in neighboring appellations in the Côte de Beaune, including a tiny plot in the Criots-Bâtard-Montrachet Grand Cru, several holdings in Chassagne-Montrachet and Puligny-Montrachet, and beyond. The domain was established in 1973, but the Lamy family history of vine growing in Saint-Aubin dates back to 1640. Since setting up, Hubert Lamy has passed management of the domaine onto his son, the Méo-Camuzet-trained Olivier Lamy and his wife Karine. The estate now covers just under 20 hectares (50 acres) across Saint-Aubin, Puligny-Montrachet, Chassagne-Montrachet and Santenay. However, the majority of the domaine vineyards are in Saint-Aubin, with around two-thirds of the holdings are given to Chardonnay and the remaining third, Pinot Noir. The soils are mainly comprised of the classic, ancient clay-limestone combination of the Côte d'Or, and, nominally, the domaine's best land is a tiny 0.05 hectare (0.12 acre) plot in Criots-Bâtard-Montrachet Grand Cru. Lamy's Chardonnay is fermented in barrels ranging from one to five years old and is bottled after 12-18 months of aging. Large format oak barrels, or hogsheads (between 300 and 600-liters in capacity) are preferred over the more regular 228L Burgundy barriques and around 30 percent of the oak is new wood. The vinification for Pinot Noir includes a small portion of whole cluster bunches in the ferment but, for the majority, the grapes are destemmed prior to fermentation. Secondary fermentation occurs in barrels and the red wines are racked, fined and filtered, then botted after 12-18 months of barrel maturation. Production extends to roughly 110,000 bottles annually and about 70 percent of this is exported worldwide.

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