2010 | Domenico Clerico | Aeroplan Servaj

Aromas of fresh violet, blue lilac, mint, menthol and orange zest take center stage. The ethereal fragrance doesn't carry over to the palate. however, which displays oak extract, dried cherry, espresso, dried sage and roasted coffee bean alongside bitterly astringent wood tannins that dry out the mouth and generate an abrupt finish.

Reviews:

• Wine Advocate: The 2010 Barolo Aeroplan Servaj is a wine of celestial aspiration. It soars in beauty and intensity, imparting delicate aromas of wild berry, blue flower and balsam herb as it makes its steady ascent. It shows the best of Serralunga d'Alba. The quality of fruit is tonic and compact with enormous inner tension and verve. There is a subtle, but determined, vein of acidic freshness that adds impressive length and persistency to the finish.

• James Suckling: This is rich and velvety with lots of dried fruits, spices and coffee aromas and flavors. Full-bodied, round and chewy, yet rich and flavorful. Big and juicy style. My favorite 2010 Barolo from Clerico.

Producer Information

Domenico Clerico is a small, high-quality producer near Monforte d'Alba in Piemonte. It is particularly known for rich, aromatic, single-vineyard wines from the Barolo appellation. The Barolo lineup is headed by Percristina, from a 1.7-hectare (4.2-acre) plot in the Mosconi cru, which is aged for 36 months in French barriques, then 24 months in Slavonian oak vats. As well-known (and a little easier to find) is the Ciabot Mentin, from a 5.5-ha (13.6-acre) portion of the Ginestra cru, which receives 24 to 30 months in French barriques. A separate 3-ha (7.5-acre) Ginestra plot provides the grapes for the Barolo Pajana. Aeroplanservaj (Wild Aeroplane) is named after the nickname Domenico's father gave him, and is sourced from a rented plot in Serralunga d'Alba. The Bricotto cuvée is rarest of all, sourced from just 0.3ha (0.7 acres) in the Bussia vineyard, and produces a mere 750 magnums annually. The generic Barolo is sourced from a specific 4.1ha (10.1 acres) of vines in cru vineyards, and is aged for 18 to 24 months in a mix of new and old barriques and large Slavonian casks. Capisme-e is labelled as Langhe Nebbiolo, but produced from fruit from Barolo vineyards, aged in steel tanks. Nebbiolo also dominates in the Arte Langhe Rosso which combines fruit from three of the cru plots with 10 percent Barbera, The range is completed by a Barbera d'Alba and a Langhe Dolcetto. Winemaking has evolved over the years and Domenico Clerico does not sit firmly within either the modernist or traditional camp. Decisions regarding use of barriques or large barriques have historically been taken at least partly with a pragmatic view concerning availability and ease of handling, and the big change has been to extend maceration periods from five to eight days to an average of 18. Approaches in the vineyard are perhaps more dogmatic. Vine quality is considered paramount and yields are amongst the lowest in the region. The estate in its current form began in 1976, when Domenico took over his father's 5-ha (12-acre) smallholding, which had supplied the local cooperative. Over the years he has added small parcels from some of the best sites in Barolo and now holdings totals around 21ha (52 acres).

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