2019 | La Raia | Gavi Riserva

The La Raia Gavi Riserva boasts citrus notes, including lemon and grapefruit, along with floral aromas and hints of mineral nuances. It offers a well-balanced acidity, a medium to full body, and a lingering finish.

Producer Information

Gavi estate La Raia was purchased in 2003 by Giorgio Rossi Cairo, and it’s now run by his son-in-law, Tom Dean (right), and Giorgio’s daughter Caterina. The 25 hectares of vines are farmed biodynamically, and have been certified by Demeter from the 2007 harvest after a period of conversion. I chatted with Tom about the process of running an estate along biodynamic lines, and tasted the wines. The conversion period has been five years, from being conventionally run previously. Some of the vineyards are 60 years old, and Tom says that it takes time for these to undergo conversion. He reckons that with vineyards it takes about four or five years of practising biodynamics to see the effects, although it does depend where you are starting from. What were the first steps in making this transition from conventional to biodynamic growing? ‘It’s all about the soil’, he maintains. ‘You have to use lighter machinery, do less work with tractors, more manual work, and add specific things to do with the life of the soil’. For example, in Autumn they sow mixed seeds – grasses, legumes and cereals – and then by spring this has grown into a jungle, so it can be cut and dug into the soil. There’s a specialized tool that goes on the back of the tractor for this purpose.

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