2009 | Marie Noelle Ledru | Grand Cru Brut Cuvee du Goulte Blanc de Noirs

A masterpiece! Deep and precise. Filling the air with aromas of green apple, apple cake, ginger, tea leaf, ash, forest berries, dry biscuit. It's a scents carousel. Pulpy substance driven by a movingly balanced acidity, an apple juice. Dry finish, incredibly fine pearl color. Definitely worth tasting!

Reviews:

• Antonio Galloni: Bright yellow-gold. Smoky red berries and blood orange on the spicy, mineral-inflected nose and in the mouth. Broad and sappy on entry, then tighter in the mid-palate, with gentle acidity adding lift. Shows very good energy for a warm-vintage wine and finishes with building floral character and lingering notes of honeysuckle and buttered toast.

Producer Information

Marie-Noëlle Ledru is a rare breed of female vigneron – she calls herself a ‘viticultrice’. As a civil servant, she inherited the property from her parents who retired in 1984. Her philosophy is virtually organic, using no insecticides and no herbicides, and if treatments are necessary, only environment friendly options are considered. Until recently the Ledru estate was 6 hectares in size but family disputes have resulted in her vineyards being reduced to a 2.5 hectares. 2ha Pinot in Ambonnay and .5ha Chardonnay in Bouzy. The wines are all classically vinified in tank with no oak maturation and malo-lactic fermentations occur. Yields are low, chaptalization is avoided, no filtration, no cold stabilisation, dosages are all low and minimal amounts of sulphur are used during the appropriate wine making processes. Bottles are disgorged by hand. The entire wine making process is manual and labour intensive – and the results speak loud. The Ledru style focuses on purity, complexity, power and yet all of this is enclosed in an elegant framework. The novice may think that oak is utilised somewhere in the wine making process, but you would be wrong. Precisely manicured and maintained vineyards are the key. “Great wines start in the vineyard” – and Marie-Noëlle is the perfect example. Now she produces tiny quantities of great Champagne, not taking on any new customers and rationing out what she has to loyal existing customers.

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