2010 | Comtes Lafon | Volnay Santenots du Milieu

Saturated red-ruby. Briary dark and red berries are complicated by chocolate and smoky soil tones on the nose. Hugely rich, creamy and seamless, with wild small red berries and smoke dominating. Excellent balance and breed here; ethereal but at the same time sharply delineated. Rich, smooth tannins come on late and are thoroughly buffered by the wine's fruit.

Reviews:

• Wine Advocate: The 2010 Volnay Santenots is pure silk on the palate. It reveals striking suppleness and mid-palate pliancy in its expressive red berries, plums, flowers and licorice. This is an inviting, totally alluring wine graced with tons of sheer sexiness. A voluptuous, creamy finish takes things to their logical conclusion. There are no hard edges in this exceptionally elegant, polished Volnay.

• Burghound: Outstanding! As was the case from cask, moderate reduction still renders the nose difficult to assess though it does not seem so severe as to suggest that it's permanent; in any event my score clearly offers the benefit of the doubt that it is not. There is plenty of energy and punch to the rich, concentrated and utterly delicious flavors that are at once generous but beautifully delineated before culminating in a balanced, explosive and gorgeously long finish. The amount of underlying material is truly impressive and the firm tannins are already well-integrated as the buffering sap almost makes them invisible. Again, assuming that the reduction isn't a longer-term issue, this should be one of the great vintages for this storied wine.

Producer Information

Domaine des Comtes Lafon is a wine producer in Burgundy making some of the most lauded (and highly priced) white wines from Chardonnay in the region. It is located in Meursault in the Côte de Beaune subregion, but has vineyards in three other villages: Chassagne-Montrachet, Volnay and Monthélie.Comtes Lafon's house and cellar were built in 1869 by the Boch family, but its reputation as a winery was most heavily influenced by Jules Lafon, who married Marie Boch in 1894. Lafon bought many of the significant premier cru plots in Meursault and Volnay, and in 1919, parcels in the grand cru Le Montrachet vineyard.Domaine des Comtes Lafon saw an extended period of sharecropping after Jules Lafon's death and the future of the estate became uncertain. It was Jules' grandson René Lafon who took an interest in the winery and fought to stop the division of the vineyards – a move that secured the future of the domaine.

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