1999 | Domaine du Clos de Tart | Mommessin Grand Cru (Magnum)

Dark red color; looks like a young wine. Expressive if slightly medicinal aromas of dark berries, purple flowers, spices and crushed-stone minerality. Dense and rather powerful if a bit unrefined, with very rich flavors of redcurrant, tobacco, spices and wild herbs conveying a strong impression of extract (perhaps a bit too much saignée here?). A bit less brisk in the mouth than it is on the nose, but with no shortage of acidity. Finishes with a serious dusting of tannins and strong saline persistence.

Reviews:

• Wine Advocate: Tasted at the pre-dinner vertical to mark Sylvain Pitiot's retirement from the domaine, the 1999 Clos de Tart Grand Cru is certainly the best vintage until the 2002. The nose here is not too shabby with gorgeous red plum and bergamot scents, dried rose petals and cold stone scents. The palate is medium-bodied with firm, strict tannin. The fruit is edging away from this 1999 and being substituted with attractive black pepper, bay leaf and Earl Grey tea notes. What remains is the weight and presence of this Clos de Tart that lingers wonderfully in the mouth. This might be considered as Pitiot's first, but not last success at the estate.

• Burghound: This is one of those wines that is frustratingly variable and while none of the bottles that I have had has been poor, my scores have ranged from 90 to 95 points, which is an enormous range and particularly so for such a (relatively speaking) young wine. At its best the overtly ripe and still relatively primary nose of spice and earth-inflected black currant offers excellent complexity. There is excellent richness and power to the big-bodied and concentrated flavors that coat the mouth with dry extract on the hugely long finish where about the only nit is a hint of warmth. At worst the finish is drying, woody and noticeably warm. In all cases though its seems clear that this is still very much on the way up and a wine that will require most of the next decade before it arrives at its peak.

Producer Information

Clos de Tart is a highly esteemed domaine based on a single grand cru monopole vineyard in the commune of Morey-Saint-Denis, in the Côte de Nuits subregion of Burgundy's Côte d'Or. The estate produces two wines, both from Pinot Noir.Clos de Tart's history dates back to a 12th Century abbey constructed by Cistercian nuns of the Notre Dame de Tart order. The vineyard has remained a monopole ever since.In 2017 the domaine was bought by French billionaire François Pinault for a figure thought to be in excess of €225 million ($260 million). Pinault's investment group, Artemis, owns a host of high-profile domaines across France, including Château Grillet in Château Grillet (Condrieu) and Château Latour in Pauillac, Bordeaux, as well as Araujo Estate in California's Napa Valley.The property was previously owned by the Mommessin family, who purchased the estate in 1932. The family sold its négociant business (and name) to Jean-Claude Boisset, of the major Burgundy wine family, although the Mommessin family retained Clos de Tart until its sale to Pinault.

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