1999 | Georges Roumier | Bonnes Mares

Thick in texture, black in color, it delivers much character earth, red berry and ripe-tasting blackberry, spices in a blend both modern and traditional. So clean, so pure, so attractive.

Reviews:

• Wine Cellar: Good deep red. Aromas of black raspberry, graphite, chocolate, cocoa powder and herbs, plus an earthy tobacco hint of Montecristo No. 2. A wine of great power and energy, just beginning to round into its adult form. Wonderfully savory flavors of dark raspberry and Cuban cigar tobacco, plus a suggestion of honey. Really glistens on the palate, showing an uncommonly suave texture and strong minerality. This wine is at the beginning of a long peak-drinking window; in fact, my sample seemed still to want to tighten up in the bottle. This still-youthful wine finishes with terrific savory grip. I should note that Roumier actually prefers his 1999 Chambolle-Musigny Les Amoureuses to this wine!

• Vinous: The 1999 Bonnes-Mares Grand Cru served in Hong Kong showed the best of all three times I recently had it, the Tour d’Argent was the least. All three bottles display what you might term a 'ravishing' bouquet that articulates the warmth of that growing season. Kirsch, blueberry and violets abound, slightly more floral when tasted in London. But it is certainly one of Christophe’s most precocious Bonnes-Mares on the nose, indeed, and the palate too. Rounded and plush, yet matched by a killer line of acidity that feels more prominent in the Hong Kong bottle. Christophe Roumier mentioned that the 1999 was 80% de-stemmed and I think that 20% is vital in maintaining the freshness on the finish. It is not my favorite vintage but I suspect that in 10 years time it will be wonderful. Tasted at the Roumier verticals in Hong Kong and London.

Producer Information

Domaine Georges Roumier is a wine producer based in the Côte de Nuits village of Chambolle-Musigny, where it produces some of Burgundy's most expensive, highly rated, and sought-after wines. The Roumier story began when Georges Roumier married Genevieve Quanquin in 1924. Quanquin had family vineyards in Chambolle-Musigny, which Roumier began to expand upon. Instead of buying plots outright, Roumier used the French sharecropping/lease system of métayage, whereby an individual cultivates the land for the owner in exchange for a proportion of the produce, to build up the domaine's range. Roumier began with small plots in Musigny, moving onto Bonnes Mares as well as securing two plots in Clos de Vougeot. Most recently, Domaine Georges Roumier expanded into Ruchottes-Chambertin, where it is entitled to two thirds of the harvest from a 0.5 hectare (1.2 acre) parcel owned by Michel Bonnefond. The other third is sometimes encountered as Ruchottes wines labeled with the Bonnefond name (the wine is identical to the Roumier version). When Georges Roumier died in 1965, his son Jean-Marie took over the winemaking. Eventually Christophe, Jean-Marie's son, took over and is the domaine's current winemaker. His focus is very much on the terroir, so new oak is used sparingly and the temperature of the ferment is kept low to allow for the delicacy and fragrance of the wine to shine through. The most important plots in the Georges Roumier portfolio are in the Bonnes Mares Grand Cru vineyard (in which the domaine has 1.6 hectares/3.9 acres) and the Chambolle-Musigny Premier Cru Les Amoureuses vineyard (0.4 hectares/one acre), which make two of the domaine's most sought-after wines.

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