2018 | Pierre Overnoy | Arbois Pupillin Poulsard Emmanuel Houillon

Domaine Overnoy's Poulsard is extremely delicate, with a beautifully-preserved fruitiness. Its bouquet delivers a perfectly-preserved fruitiness (particularly cherry), accompanied by floral notes (rose, peony), and the palate lends suppleness with subtle tannins.

Reviews:

• Wine Advocate: Exceptionally, I tasted a sample of the red 2018 Arbois Pupillin Ploussard, a bright ruby colored red with an explosive nose of watermelon, raspberries and some smoky meat (pigeon?), which gives it a bit of a funky touch, with something earthy and a note of licorice but following the cleaner and more precise style of the reds of the last few years. It used to take the reds ten years to come around, but the recent vintages can be drunk much earlier. 2018 was a ripe year, and the grapes ripened properly, but the wine manages to keep the freshness, right now aided by some carbonic gas that is still dissolved in the wine. It has energy and tension on the palate, but it's also nicely structured and has ripe tannins that are not as sharp as they can be in some cooler years. This is not yet bottled, but the 2017 was already bottled when I tasted this in May 2019, so this could be bottled in the next six to ten months.

Producer Information

Maison Pierre Overnoy (now run by Overnoy's protégé Emmanuel Houillon and his wife Anne) is a flagship minimal-intervention wine estate producing highly sought-after wines from its base in the village of Pupillin, in the mountainous Jura region of eastern France. The estate's modern reputation was established when Overnoy embraced natural winemaking techniques and eliminated sulfur from the winemaking process.
Overnoy, a Jura native, took over the familial domaine in the latter half of the 20th Century, and attended the winemaking school in Beaune. However, he was soon disaffected with modern winemaking principles and, following an encounter with natural winemaking consultant Jacques Néauport (himself a disciple of the so-called "father of natural wines", the legendary Jules Chauvet), he returned to minimal-intervention in the cellar. Since the 1990s, Houillon, then a teenager, had worked at the estate. He (alongside his wife Anne) eventually took over the running of the domaine from Overnoy in 2001, although Overnoy continued to give advice and input into the running of the domaine. In all, the domaine covers six hectares (15 acres) around Pupillin. These are divided equally (roughly two hectares/five acres each) between Ploussard (the local name for Poulsard), Chardonnay and Savagnin.
A further 0.3 hectares (0.7 acres) of Trousseau has recently been planted by Houillon. The vineyards are organically farmed.

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