2020 | Domaine Dujac | Puligny Montrachet Les Folatieres

The bouquet wafts from the glass in a classic blend of white peach, apple, chalky soil tones, honeysuckle, a touch of macadamia nut and a deft framing of vanillin oak. On the palate the wine is bright, full-bodied, focused and well-balanced, with fine complexity, a good core, lovely mineral drive and a long, poised and classy finish.

Reviews:

• Wine Advocate: Notes of pear, waxy yellow orchard fruit, nutmeg and freshly baked bread introduce the 2020 Puligny-Montrachet 1er Cru Les Folatières, a delicate, medium-bodied white that's bright, fine-boned and saline in this warm vintage. Harvest began on August 19 at Domaine Dujac in 2020, concluding only six days later, and Jeremy Seysses opted for very short macerations, retaining 90% to 95% whole clusters. In the vineyards, the viticultural team didn't deleaf at all in the warm, sunny growing season, and Seysses noted a big difference in drought resistance between organic and biodynamically farmed parcels. Bottling is planned earlier than usual to capture the wines vibrant fruit intact. And the result? A very persuasive portfolio of 2020s, defined by deep and vibrant fruit tones, rich and powdery tannins and the impressively saturated hues that characterize the vintage along the Côte d'Or. They will require more patience, I suspect, than the remarkably charming 2019s (revisited here in bottle), but they will reward it.

• Burghound: A vague whiff of the exotic is present in the form of passion fruit on the cool aromas of lemon-lime, acacia blossom and essence of pear. The much sleeker and more intense medium weight flavors possess excellent delineation on the sneaky long and very dry finale citrus-tinged finale. This is lovely and a wine that should repay a decade plus of cellaring.

Producer Information

Domaine Dujac is a highly regarded and critically lauded wine producer based in Burgundy's Morey-Saint-Denis appellation. It makes high-quality wines from Pinot Noir and Chardonnay, ranging from entry-level Bourgogne to wines made from some of the top Grand Cru vineyards in the Côte de Nuits, including Clos de la Roche and Le Chambertin. The domaine was founded in 1968 by Jacques Seysses, who had spent the previous few years travelling around Burgundy learning the craft from the likes of Aubert de Villaine at Domaine de la Romanée-Conti and Charles Rousseau of Domaine Armand Rousseau. He purchased a small, run-down property in Morey-Saint-Denis and planted some Pinot Noir and Chardonnay. In the late 20th Century, Dujac expanded its estate, acquiring grand cru plots in Clos de la Roche (the domaine has just under two hectares/five acres here), Clos St-Denis (1.4 hectares/3.4 acres) and in northern Bonnes-Mares (nearly 0.6 hectares/1.5 acres). Dujac has also expanded further afield, taking control of plots in Romanée-Saint-Vivant (0.17 hectares/0.4 acres) and Le Chambertin (almost 0.3 hectares/0.7 acres), in Vosne-Romanée and Gevrey-Chambertin respectively. Further expansion has occurred in the range of white wines which now encompasses the Puligny-Montrachet premiers crus of Les Folatières and Les Combettes (acquired in 2014), as well as Les Monts Luisants closer to home in Morey. The family also runs a négoce firm, Dujac Fils & Père, set up in 2000, allowing fruit to be bought in as and when required. This label generally features fruit acquired around Morey and the nearby communes, pushing out into Nuits-Saint-Georges and Chambolle-Musigny. Jeremy Seysses gradually took over from his father Jacques after he started working at the domaine in 1998. He has since been joined by wife Diana and brother Alec. Since the 1960s, Dujac has made a few small changes to its winemaking style. Less new oak is used for the younger wines, and the winery is now air conditioned to allow for later malolactic fermentation. Traditionally, whole bunch pressing was used, but now the grapes undergo a small amount of destemming if ripeness levels are not high enough. Other than this, the wines have been made in the same way for half a century and are never filtered and very rarely fined.

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