2002 | Domaine des Comtes Lafon | Meursault-Charmes Premier Cru

Pungent, thoroughly ripe aromas of soft citrus fruits and spices. Fat, sweet and large-scaled; this has real dimension. Highly complex and very rich flavors of orange, minerals, hazelnut and spices. Wonderfully aromatic and showy in the mouth, but also built to age. Finishes very fat and very long. This may be bottled without a fining.

Reviews:

• Wine Advocate: Lafon’s 2002 Meursault Charmes is exceptional. Its awesome aromatics display spiced oak, peach, apricot, and yellow plum scents. Medium to full-bodied, decadent, and expansive, this intense, decadent wine bursts on the palate with silky, powerful waves of spices and yellow fruits. Even though it has massive richness and a broad-shouldered, muscular character, this beauty also displays graceful elegance.

• Burghound: This has matured magnificently yet the nose remains wonderfully fresh, bright and pure with dazzling complexity and this remarkable depth extends to the beautifully well-detailed medium weight flavors that retain superb intensity on the gorgeously persistent finish. For my taste, this classy and impeccably well-balanced effort has just arrived on the front end of what should be a long window of drinkability. A stunner of a Charmes.

Producer Information

Domaine des Comtes Lafon is a wine producer in Burgundy making some of the most lauded (and highly priced) white wines from Chardonnay in the region. It is located in Meursault in the Côte de Beaune subregion, but has vineyards in three other villages: Chassagne-Montrachet, Volnay and Monthélie. Comtes Lafon's house and cellar were built in 1869 by the Boch family, but its reputation as a winery was most heavily influenced by Jules Lafon, who married Marie Boch in 1894. Lafon bought many of the significant premier cru plots in Meursault and Volnay, and in 1919, parcels in the grand cru Le Montrachet vineyard. Domaine des Comtes Lafon saw an extended period of sharecropping after Jules Lafon's death and the future of the estate became uncertain. It was Jules' grandson René Lafon who took an interest in the winery and fought to stop the division of the vineyards – a move that secured the future of the domaine. Despite René's intervention, many of the lease agreements with the sharecroppers remained in place for decades. Comtes Lafon was making highly regarded whites in many vintages but without consistency. It wasn't until René's son, Dominique, facilitated the end of the sharecropping agreements in the late 1980s and early '90s that Domaine des Comtes Lafon was able to reach its full potential. In 1995, it adopted organic practices and since 1998 has been entirely biodynamic. Comte Lafon's stand-out wine is its single grand cru Montrachet, which has consistently been listed as one of the most expensive wines in the world. The domaine also has a range of premier cru white and red wines and while the whites have always been highly regarded, its red wines have gained new recognition for their quality in more recent vintages. In 1999 Comtes Lafon expanded into the Mâcon in southern Burgundy with a second label: Les Héritiers du Comtes Lafon.

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