2004 | Taittinger | Comtes de Champagne Blanc de Blancs Brut

Bright hints of lemon oil, white flowers and crushed rocks are layered into the pointed, vibrant finish.

Reviews:

• Wine Advocate: It’s fascinating to taste the 2004 Brut Blanc de Blancs Comtes de Champagne after the 2002, something I have been able to do on a few occasions. The 2004 is all about minerality, precision and tension. It doesn’t have the sheer richness or power of the 2002, but it makes up for that with its crystalline purity and sheer energy. Bright hints of lemon oil, white flowers and crushed rocks are layered into the pointed, vibrant finish.

• James Suckling: A rich and enticing aroma of roasted hazelnut heralds this elegant blanc de blancs, with flavors of pastry, poached apple, crystallized honey and candied ginger riding the finely detailed mousse. This is a touch smoky, presenting a resonant minerality on the finish.

Producer Information

Taittinger is one of Champagne's most famous houses. Based in the city of Reims, Taittinger is known for its Chardonnay-dominant cuvées, the pinnacle of which is the blanc de blancs prestige cuvée, Comtes de Champagne. The family-owned estate has approximately 290 hectares (710 acres) of vines, around half of which is planted to Pinot Noir, with Chardonnay and a small amount of Pinot Meunier making up the rest. These vineyards contribute 50 percent of Taittinger's output, with the rest coming from growers who have historical relationships with the house. Taittinger's Brut Reserve NV is composed of 40 percent Chardonnay, with the two Pinots making up the remainder. This makes for a fresh and reasonably delicate house style. In addition to this, Taittinger makes a range of Champagne styles, including a demi-sec, several rosés and an array of single-vineyard, vintage and otherwise limited-edition wines. The Comtes de Champagne is Taittinger's top wine, and was first made in the 1952 vintage. The grapes are mostly sourced from grand cru vineyards across Avizé, Chouilly and Le Mesnil-sur-Oger. Oak is used sparingly to impart flavors of brioche and grilled almonds, rather than to add any tannins or weight. The bottles are kept for at least 10 years in the underground chalk galleries beneath the former Saint-Nicaise Abbey in Reims (now the Taittinger headquarters). Taittinger's flagship is considered one of the most consistent blanc de blancs (effectively a Chardonnay-only Champagne) from the region. Taittinger also produces a somewhat rarer Comtes de Champagne Brut Rosé. The blend for this wine is more Pinot Noir-dominant with only 30 percent Chardonnay in the base wine and 15 percent of the Pinot Noir vinified as a red wine (in other words, fermented on skins) prior to blending. The house was established under Pierre Taittinger in 1932. His son François took the reins in 1945 and built up the cellars and the vineyards, establishing Taittinger as a top Champagne house. In 2005, the company was sold to US investment group Starwood, but was bought back a year later by the family. Most recently, Taittinger has established a vineyard in the English region of Kent.

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