2005 | Clos de Tart | Grand Cru Monopole

Deep red-ruby. Explosive nose offers superripe plum jam and chocolate notes complicated by smoked meat and lifted by minerality; some violet and black pepper nuances reminded me of Cote-Rotie.

Reviews:

• Wine Advocate: Sylvain Pithiot and his team -- whom I did not have a chance to visit in person -- scored an impressive success with this venerable Mommessin monopole. For a Burgundy of over 14% alcohol, the 2005 Clos de Tart exhibits remarkably 'cool' aromas of blueberry, greenhouse vegetation and flowers, smoked meats, and sea breeze. Nor does its silken-textured, blue- and black-fruited palate impression, while voluminous, evince any heat. Juicy in fruit, savory, saline, and stony throughout, this wine finishes with a lasting impression of concentrated fresh blueberry and blackberry, along with stony, alkaline minerality and black pepper-dusted smoked duck.

• Wine Enthusiast: A beautiful wine, smooth, polished, with rounded corners. Its intense fruit is balanced and harmonizes well with the sweet tannins, the layers of wood and the red berry flavors. Certainly powerful, it impresses equally with the pleasure it will give in 7-10 years.

Producer Information

Clos de Tart is a highly esteemed domaine based on a single grand cru monopole vineyard in the commune of Morey-Saint-Denis, in the Côte de Nuits subregion of Burgundy's Côte d'Or. The estate produces two wines, both from Pinot Noir. Clos de Tart's history dates back to a 12th Century abbey constructed by Cistercian nuns of the Notre Dame de Tart order. The vineyard has remained a monopole ever since. In 2017 the domaine was bought by French billionaire François Pinault for a figure thought to be in excess of €225 million ($260 million). Pinault's investment group, Artemis, owns a host of high-profile domaines across France, including Château Grillet in Château Grillet (Condrieu) and Château Latour in Pauillac, Bordeaux, as well as Araujo Estate in California's Napa Valley. The property was previously owned by the Mommessin family, who purchased the estate in 1932. The family sold its négociant business (and name) to Jean-Claude Boisset, of the major Burgundy wine family, although the Mommessin family retained Clos de Tart until its sale to Pinault. The Mommessin brand has relocated to Beaujolais under the Boisset portfolio, while the wines of Clos de Tart ceased to carry the Mommessin name on the label for a period until the takeover in 2017. The vineyard covers 7.5 hectares (18.5 acres) and earned its grand cru status in 1939. Clos de Tart (click on the link to see more on the grand cru vineyard itself) has a southeast exposure and is divided into six blocks with slight differences in soil composition and aspect. Each block is harvested and vinified separately to make the most of the differing microclimates. Vine work, including harvesting and training, is mostly done by hand due to the steep gradient of much of the vineyard. The property also has its own nursery where it cultivates massal selections of its vines for future replanting. The only two wines it produces are the Grand Cru Clos de Tart, and the Premier Cru La Forge de Tart that carries the Morey-Saint-Denis designation.

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