1989 | Charles Mortet | Chambolle Musigny aux Beaux Bruns

The 1989 Chambertin Grand Cru from Charles Mortet, father of the late Denis Mortet, is a revelation. It has clearly aged wonderfully. It has a quite ethereal bouquet with exquisite definition, wild strawberry and red cherry, pressed rose petals, bay leaf and a light touch of morels. The palate is extremely well balanced with natural composure, displaying impressive depth and fullness in the mouth, in tandem with a sense of nobility that pervades this Grand Cru from start to finish. I have never been a big fan of the 1989 vintage. This is one of the best that I have encountered. Sublime. Tasted at the Gevrey-Chambertin lunch at China Tang in Hong Kong.

Reviews:

• Vinous: The 1989 Chambertin Grand Cru from Charles Mortet, father of the late Denis Mortet, is a revelation. It has clearly aged wonderfully. It has a quite ethereal bouquet with exquisite definition, wild strawberry and red cherry, pressed rose petals, bay leaf and a light touch of morels. The palate is extremely well balanced with natural composure, displaying impressive depth and fullness in the mouth, in tandem with a sense of nobility that pervades this Grand Cru from start to finish. I have never been a big fan of the 1989 vintage. This is one of the best that I have encountered. Sublime. Tasted at the Gevrey-Chambertin lunch at China Tang in Hong Kong.

Producer Information

Domaine Denis Mortet in Burgundy was founded by Denis Mortet in the early 1990s. He died at the age of 51, after taking his own life in January 2006. In his brief, but highly acclaimed passage from the winemaking scene, he rose to become a colossal figure in Burgundy, fashioning wines from relatively modest vineyard holdings which punch far above their weight. He rose to fame with an exceptional range of wines from the 1993 vintage.He believed with a deep passion that the work in the vineyard was everything. But there was an essential contradiction to his work: he yearned to make wines of finesse and style, but everything he did in the vineyard and cellar tended towards sumptuous wines of almost unparalleled weight and opulence, which achieved cult status and a devoted following. But the harder he drove himself, the further from his stated aim he went. Only now, under son Arnaud and the watchful eye of his mother Laurence, are the wines achieving the minerality and elegance (and seemingly without sacrificing weight) that Denis sought.

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