1998 | Domaine Bonneau du Martray | Corton-Charlemagne

light golden. A hint of heather honey, malty, almost a hint of Premox, which tends to get lost in the glass. Apple, some herbal sweets, liquorice. With air also peach. Finally almost truffled. Silky approach, firm acidity, buttery suppleness in the middle of the palate, substantial in the transition to the finish, mineral-firm foundation. A strong, robust vintage type. In terms of complexity and length, however, only medium-weight.

Reviews:

• Wine Advocate: The searing sun and heat of August burnt a significant percentage of the grapes, so de la Moriniere was compelled 'to sort like crazy'. While he wishes he could have harvested earlier, my impression is that his 1998 Corton-Charlemagne benefitted from the extra hang time by gaining richness, breadth, opulence, and riper acidities. Its delightful tropical fruit (pineapple and passion fruit) and spiced apple aromas lead to its velvety-textured, medium-bodied personality. This is a harmonious 1998, without any of the angular acid and tart aspects that typify so many of this difficult vintage's efforts. Its long seamless finish, and dense, fruit-packed character are outstanding.

• Wine Spectator: Vibrant. Clean and lively, with lovely midpalate concentration, this medium- to full-bodied white Burgundy is straight as an arrow. Fabulous balance of subtle toasted oak and ripe fruit. An ager.

Producer Information

Domaine Bonneau du Martray is a highly regarded wine producer based in the village of Pernand-Vergelesses, in the Côte de Beaune subregion of Burgundy's Côte d'Or heartland, a stone's throw from the famed Hill of Corton (Montagne de Corton). Bonneau du Martray is dedicated to the production of two grand crus: Corton and Corton-Charlemagne. It is the only estate in Burgundy to make wines exclusively from Grand Cru vineyards. Estate-owned vineyads are all located in a single parcel on the famous Corton hill. The 23.5 acre (9.5ha) parcel of Chardonnay is the largest single holding in the Grand Cru. This Corton-Charlemagne produced from here by the estate is widely regarded as one of the greatest white wines made from Chardonnay in Burgundy. The other 3.7 acres (1.5ha) plot is planted to Pinot Noir for said Corton. These wines have been domaine bottled since 1969. In the winery, fermentations are seperated according to the vineyard block that the grapes are sourced from. All fermentations are spontaneous with no innoculations or commercial yeasts utilized. Up to 30-percent new oak is for 12 months of barrel maturation prior to a further 6 months of ageing in tanks. Wines are lightly filtered prior to bottling. The domaine was founded by the Bonneau family following the French Revolution, but the vineyards already had a reputation for producing exceptional wines. It is estimated that vines have exsisted here since Roman times and that emperor Charlemagne was a devotee – to the red wines in particular.

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