2016 | Domenico Clerico | Barolo Pajana

Power, richness, and masculinity from the Pajana site is typical of Clerico. An ageworthy Barolo for sure, tannins are present, yet structured without overpowering the fruit.

Reviews:

• Wine Advocate: The Domenico Clerico 2016 Barolo Pajana draws its fruit from a parcel within the Ginestra cru that was planted in two phases, first in 1971 and again in 1991. It lies 350 meters above sea level and sees looser sandy soils compared to the higher-altitude parts of the vineyard (that delineates Ciabot Mentin). These conditions lead to extra richness and a velvety texture. Pajana is guided by a deep sense of elegance and finesse. The aromas show a smooth succession of cassis, black currant, blood orange, spice, camphor ash and smoke. The wine's length is what stands out, as you taste those Nebbiolo characteristics for many long minutes.

• Wine Spectator: The aromas are shy but the flavors are expressive, featuring black cherry, blackberry, plum, licorice and tobacco notes. Showing burly tannins, this powerful red will take a little longer to come around.

Producer Information

Domenico Clerico is a small, high-quality producer near Monforte d'Alba in Piemonte. It is particularly known for rich, aromatic, single-vineyard wines from the Barolo appellation. The Barolo lineup is headed by Percristina, from a 1.7-hectare (4.2-acre) plot in the Mosconi cru, which is aged for 36 months in French barriques, then 24 months in Slavonian oak vats. As well-known (and a little easier to find) is the Ciabot Mentin, from a 5.5-ha (13.6-acre) portion of the Ginestra cru, which receives 24 to 30 months in French barriques. A separate 3-ha (7.5-acre) Ginestra plot provides the grapes for the Barolo Pajana. Aeroplanservaj (Wild Aeroplane) is named after the nickname Domenico's father gave him, and is sourced from a rented plot in Serralunga d'Alba. The Bricotto cuvée is rarest of all, sourced from just 0.3ha (0.7 acres) in the Bussia vineyard, and produces a mere 750 magnums annually. The generic Barolo is sourced from a specific 4.1ha (10.1 acres) of vines in cru vineyards, and is aged for 18 to 24 months in a mix of new and old barriques and large Slavonian casks. Capisme-e is labelled as Langhe Nebbiolo, but produced from fruit from Barolo vineyards, aged in steel tanks. Nebbiolo also dominates in the Arte Langhe Rosso which combines fruit from three of the cru plots with 10 percent Barbera, The range is completed by a Barbera d'Alba and a Langhe Dolcetto. Winemaking has evolved over the years and Domenico Clerico does not sit firmly within either the modernist or traditional camp. Decisions regarding use of barriques or large barriques have historically been taken at least partly with a pragmatic view concerning availability and ease of handling, and the big change has been to extend maceration periods from five to eight days to an average of 18. Approaches in the vineyard are perhaps more dogmatic. Vine quality is considered paramount and yields are amongst the lowest in the region. The estate in its current form began in 1976, when Domenico took over his father's 5-ha (12-acre) smallholding, which had supplied the local cooperative. Over the years he has added small parcels from some of the best sites in Barolo and now holdings totals around 21ha (52 acres).

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