Cappellano | Barolo Chinato NV (Half Liter)

This is fortified wine. It was the closing of 1870 when Giuseppe Cappellano, pharmacist of Serralunga d’Alba with a shop in Turin, perfected the original recipe of Barolo Chinato marketing as “medicinal and anti-malaric liniment” what would shortly after become one of the classics of Italian oenology. We talk of recipe and not of formula because this great aromatic wine for meditation is born out of artisanal wisdom, handed down in our family generation after generation, which has much in common with the knowledge of the land and countryside culture. The preparation is well-known ‒ the extract of china calissaia mixed with other aromatic herbs, sugar, and alcohol is added to the aged Barolo ‒ whereas the list of spices used for the aroma is secret. The equilibrium of contrasts, the gusto-olfactive complexity, and an endless persistence constitute the charm of a wine which is seductive as few others, capable of sustaining the nigh-impossible match with dark chocolate.

Reviews:

• Vinous: We ended the meal with a Piedmontese classic, the always exceptionally good NV Cappellano Barolo Chinato. From the house that invented it, this is a Chinato of real pedigree: long, suave, complex and rich, featuring lovely, lingering notes of quinine and dark berries and a very typical resiny nuance (typical of this estate’s version of Chinato, that is). It provided a wonderful and very Langhe way to bring our dinner to a close.

Producer Information

Cappellano is an Italian winery in Piedmont making high-quality Barolo wines in the Serralunga d'Alba commune. The Cappellano family was influential in Serralunga d'Alba, as well as in the greater Piedmont wine industry, and now the largest square in the parish carries their name: Piazza Cappellano. Previously called Dott. G. Cappellano, or Dr. Giuseppe Cappellano, the estate was founded in 1870 with an initial 60 hectares (150 acres) of land. It gained prominence in 1889, having featured at a Paris wine exhibition in a time when French producers were threatened by the spread of phylloxera. In the early 1900s, Cappellano was well known for Barolo Chinato – the fortified wine made from Nebbiolo and infused with quinine bark and spices. Things deteriorated after World War II, however, and vineyards were sold off to other Piedmont producers. In the 1970s, Teobaldo Cappellano began to reestablish the family name. He focused on a much smaller scale and bought four hectares (10 acres) of land with prominent parcels of vineyards in Gabutti. Teobaldo gained infamy in the early 1980s when he banned journalists from his cellar unless they agreed to review his wines without scores. He implemented traditional practices including the use of indigenous yeasts and aging in the traditional, large-format oak casks, or botti, rather than smaller French barrique. Teobaldo was also president of Italy's Vini Veri ("true wine") association.

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