2009 | Clos l'Églis | Esprit

Very open and inviting at first, this features steeped black currant, anise and smoldering tobacco flavors leading the way, followed by equally rich notes of fig paste and ganache on the finish.

Reviews:

• Wine Spectator: Very open and inviting at first, this features steeped black currant, anise and smoldering tobacco flavors leading the way, followed by equally rich notes of fig paste and ganache on the finish. Turns dense and almost loamy through the finish, with lots in reserve. Merlot. Best from 2014 through 2030.

• Vinous: The 2009 L’Esprit de l’Église offers rose petal tinged red fruit on the nose that feels a little flat compared to some of its peers. The palate is medium-bodied with candied red fruit, sweet and figgy with a simple but appealing finish.

Producer Information

Eric Rodez has been producing champagne in the eighth generation since 1984. Before taking up his work as a recolte manipulant, he gained experience in Burgundy and as cellar master at Krug, where he was responsible for the Grand Cuvée. During this time, the foundation was laid for what particularly distinguishes his champagnes today: he has mastered the complex assemblage technique like hardly anyone else. Until the end of 2018, he was also mayor of Ambonnay for more than ten years and is committed to his region as a whole by trying to promote quality in viticulture in the Champagne region. For some time now, he has been supported by his son Mikhael, who is responsible for the vineyards. Mikhael was also the one who urged Eric to vinify single vineyards. This required some persuasion, as nothing is blended here; it was unusual for Eric not to intervene. Nevertheless, these champagnes also turned out to be a great success: Masterpieces and filigree and finesse. Since then, Eric divides the champagnes into: Author wines (assemblage), single vineyard wines and terroir wines (different vineyards from one area). In 1989, he began the conversion to a biodynamic winery and has been certified since 2017. He regularly goes into a rage when we ask him about the harvest quantity. He shows us vines in neighbouring vineyards that bend to the ground under the weight of countless grapes: "Every year we harvest ever larger yields and thus endanger the quality of the product, on whose reputation we all depend!" says Eric. As mentioned earlier, Eric is a master in the cellar: infected by his time at Krug, he is almost obsessive about the ageing of individual parcels: from 35 parcels he vinifies 60 different base wines, some in tank, most in used wood (he is convinced that wood adds complexity and complexity to Champagne), some with malolactic fermentation, others without. The aim is to develop an assemblage that is more complex than its ingredients. Once a year, he works on his composition in this way, "every year a whole new symphony is created!" enthuses Eric, who likes to compare his creative process to that of a musician and composer. Eric's champagnes are characterised by a distinct vinosity paired with multi-layered complexity, finesse and elegance.

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