2019 | Domaine des Comtes Lafon | Montrachet Grand Cru

A cool and ripe mix is composed by an array of both white and yellow orchard fruit and a beautiful array of spice elements, all of which is trimmed in discreet wood influence.

Reviews:

• Wine Advocate: Unwinding in the glass with notes of pear, citrus oil, mandarin orange, ripe peaches, freshly baked bread and clear honey, Lafon's 2019 Montrachet Grand Cru is full-bodied, elegantly muscular and layered, with a deep and prodigiously concentrated core, striking mid-palate amplitude and a long, lip-smacking finish. In any comparison between the triumvirate of 2017, 2018, and 2019, I can see this, the youngest of the three, taking first place a decade from now. Dominique Lafon—joined by daughter Léa and nephew Pierre—began picking on September 5 and was very upbeat about the quality of the 2019 vintage, reporting yields in the region of 40 hectoliters per hectare and alcohol levels in the upper 13s. Both more concentrated and more incisive in white and finer-boned and more elegant in red, I'd give the nod to 2019 over 2018 in both colors at this address. And that is quite a compliment, as Lafon really excelled in 2018. In short, as Dominique hands the reins to the next generation, it's fair to say that the Domaine des Comtes Lafon is in very fine shape indeed.

• Allen Meadows: A cool and ripe mix is composed by an array of both white and yellow orchard fruit and a beautiful array of spice elements, all of which is trimmed in discreet wood influence. This is a big but not massive wine as the flavors are sculpted and intense while offering a highly beguiling texture on the powerful and muscular finish that is phenomenally long. The Perrières is stunningly good but this possesses another dimension. One of the wines of the vintage.

Producer Information

Domaine des Comtes Lafon is a wine producer in Burgundy making some of the most lauded (and highly priced) white wines from Chardonnay in the region. It is located in Meursault in the Côte de Beaune subregion, but has vineyards in three other villages: Chassagne-Montrachet, Volnay and Monthélie. Comtes Lafon's house and cellar were built in 1869 by the Boch family, but its reputation as a winery was most heavily influenced by Jules Lafon, who married Marie Boch in 1894. Lafon bought many of the significant premier cru plots in Meursault and Volnay, and in 1919, parcels in the grand cru Le Montrachet vineyard. Domaine des Comtes Lafon saw an extended period of sharecropping after Jules Lafon's death and the future of the estate became uncertain. It was Jules' grandson René Lafon who took an interest in the winery and fought to stop the division of the vineyards – a move that secured the future of the domaine. Despite René's intervention, many of the lease agreements with the sharecroppers remained in place for decades. Comtes Lafon was making highly regarded whites in many vintages but without consistency. It wasn't until René's son, Dominique, facilitated the end of the sharecropping agreements in the late 1980s and early '90s that Domaine des Comtes Lafon was able to reach its full potential. In 1995, it adopted organic practices and since 1998 has been entirely biodynamic. Comte Lafon's stand-out wine is its single grand cru Montrachet, which has consistently been listed as one of the most expensive wines in the world. The domaine also has a range of premier cru white and red wines and while the whites have always been highly regarded, its red wines have gained new recognition for their quality in more recent vintages. In 1999 Comtes Lafon expanded into the Mâcon in southern Burgundy with a second label: Les Héritiers du Comtes Lafon.

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